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Thread: Td5 clutch not disengaging properly after replacing clutch and flywheel

  1. #1
    Nielsc Guest

    Td5 clutch not disengaging properly after replacing clutch and flywheel

    Spend the past week changing the R380 gearbox of my defender td5 due to problems with 5th gear and reverse.
    Got a second hand box with 38,000km on it and replaced the clutch and flywheel with the spigot bush aswell.

    After the PITA job, started the engine and guess what, could not engage any gear with the engine running. Cut off engine and all is fine.
    Eventually I bled the hydraulics 4 times to be sure there was no air in the master and slave cilinders, but did not help.
    When starting the engine with the car in gear and clutch depressed. All seemed fine and i could take off as always, no problems, untill I want to change gear.
    The biting point of the clutch was very low, I need to release the pedal a tiny bit and the car takes off.

    Then I adjusted the master cilinder rod where it is attached to the pedal untill there are only 2 to 3 threads sticking out of the nut at the end of the rod. The 17mm nut that limits pedal travel downwards is also adjusted so that the pedal hits the floor.

    Biting point is way higher now and I CAN get it into gear now, but it still takes some force to do so. When driving, all is fine and shifts go pretty smooth, but still not as smooth as it should be.
    When standing still again it takes more effort to select gear, and reverse is still very difficult to select!

    I am pretty sure I installed the disc the right way, with gearbox side facing gearbox side, altough when having this sort of problems offcourse i start to doubt if I did installed it correctly as I always had a memory full of holes

    Replaced the spigot bush aswell and when mounting the box back to the engine the last quarter inch we were unable to close the gap and I did use the bolts to pull the box against the engine. It was the only way altough I know I should not do it this way. I thought the input shaft could be sticking in the spigot bush , but after driving 2 days I guess it should be loosend up right ?

    To me it seems like the input shaft still does not release properly of the engine and keeps turning a little bit when clutch depressed.

    Does this sound familiar to anyone on here as I ran out of ideas what the problem could be ...

    Niels

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    bet you put the friction plate in backwards... dont ask.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Nielsc Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    bet you put the friction plate in backwards... dont ask.
    I have to ask, Did you have the same problem once ?
    The weird thing is that it is very driveable? I would think with the plate installed backwards it would totally not disengage ?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    bet you put the friction plate in backwards... dont ask.
    x2

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    X3....


    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #6
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    On a Td5 the snout on the clutch plate goes towards the flywheel,

    every other car it goes towards the gearbox.

    When you put it back its better to use a dummy shaft to line the clutch up, its not so good to force the gearbox on with the bolts

    Clutch Alignment Tool FOR 200 300 TDI TD5 Engines | eBay

    just across the water from you

  7. #7
    Nielsc Guest
    did use an old input shaft wich fitted perfectly to centre the clutch plate.

    I guess all my work was for nothing then and I have to pull everything apart again to look into it.

    I was thinking, isn't it easier and faster to remove the complete engine instead of the boxes? Is does look like alot less bolts to undo...
    I mean how hard can it be ? Draining cooling system, undo downpipe, put away AC compressor and undo all intercooler hoses and fuel lines, aswell steering pump lines and at last the gearbox ?

    I have acces to a complete workshop... What would be the easier way to do ?

    Niels

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nielsc View Post

    I have acces to a complete workshop... What would be the easier way to do ?

    Niels

    get access to the mechanics as well......

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    its 50/50.

    if you have better gear to pull the engine pull the engine

    if you have better gear to pull the gearbox pull the box.

    in most cases its easier to pull the engine based on most workshops having an engine crane as opposed to a 2 post hoist, gearbox lifter AND the correct adaptor for lifting the gearbox and tcase in one go.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Mate (a very competent Landy man) once said to me (when replacing Rangie clutch) if you drop the engine you'll probably need a new sump, drop the gearbox - well totally different story.


    Martyn

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