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Thread: Expected shock absorber life

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    I've just returned from a big trip to find the rear shocks are not working (front is probably the same) in that the mo longer rebound, and the top bush on one is flogged out.

    These are a big bore quality gas shock with a known name.

    They are about 7 years old but have only done 55,000 km. Most of those km have been on good roads other than maybe 5000 km from the last trip which saw quite a bit of corrugations etc. I have done a few other offroad trips but not many. Early on during the last trip I started checking the rear shocks for heat. They were warm but not too hot to touch. At that time I noticed some movement in the top mount so tightened it as much as I could.

    So my question is generally how long should I expect a shock to last.

    I have contact to the head office who is sympathetic, said the should last more Km but their age is an issue. They offered a $100 discount off another rear set.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    NSW SW Slopes
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    The people who revalved my Konis that had done 30K said that all seals and valves should be replaced as they will have deteriorated considerably from new condition. My shocks are normally sloppy by 60K regardless of brand so a half-life of 30K seemed reasonable.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  3. #3
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    Jan 1970
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    It's important to remember that dampers are a hydraulic unit with seals, fluid etc.

    If they sit or are used infrequently, you can encounter issues of seal hardening and leaking of fluid past the seals. The hydraulic fluid itself also degrades over time.

    I recall being told that your dampers should be changed about as often as you do a set of tyres as a rule of thumb. Obviously we should factor in the nature of our use with that guide.

    I'd take them up on the offer of the $100 off the next set and add in a replacement set of suspension bushes if the budget allows.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    The people who revalved my Konis that had done 30K said that all seals and valves should be replaced as they will have deteriorated considerably from new condition. My shocks are normally sloppy by 60K regardless of brand so a half-life of 30K seemed reasonable.

    You should be getting a bucket load more than 30,000km out of a set of Koni's unless one is doing something like the Gibb River Rd heavily loaded all the time. (hell, they may not last that long there......)

    Koni's can be 'refreshed' by adjusting them, that's what the adjustment is for before needing to be rebuilt.

    The Koni's in our Patrol have done well over 200,000km now.

    Do I need to give them a freshen up ? Yep.

    Are they so far shot that they float over undulations, crash and jump over bumps ?

    Nope, and this is from someone that was employed at one time a (very long) time ago to setup suspension, including shock valving.

    The quality of the fluid, the tolerances employed, the quality of the seals and the internal working pressures (ie. the damper type) all conrtribute to the working life, as well as the actual conditions they are subjected to.

  5. #5
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    My Bilsteins are 15 years and 200k km old. Including the CSR, Gibb, etc, etc...
    They are only now starting to show theirr age.

    However on the CSR we also had a RRC which had a 4 yo (known brand big bore shock) fail completely (no damping at all).

  6. #6
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    I don't know how to list a link but have a read of the site that does Len beadell tours (google)
    Great write up of shocker and bush life on a deefer that does more than half it's work off road and off track
    Good results from the big Konis and superpro bushes
    Dc

  7. #7
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    Sep 2007
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    My rear koni have also done over 200000 km.
    Had an eyelet unscrew itself once. Loctited it back together and that is all.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    Koni's can be 'refreshed' by adjusting them, that's what the adjustment is for before needing to be rebuilt.
    I beg to differ. The adjustment is to set the rebound as required whereas worn seals will affect both bump and rebound.

    I didn't state that the shocks were worn-out by 30K, rather that by 30K the seals have worn enough to not re-use them if the shock is being dismantled for valving adjustments.

    The life of shocks is very dependent on the work they have to do over their travel length. D2s have a long rear overhang and quite short travel with standard length springs so the shocks have to be set firmer to stay off the bumpstops. Add desert travel with a full load and see what happens with Konis on a D2.
    MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    I think Koni Raids are in a category all on their own.

    My gas shocks are more main stream in the $300/pair price range.

    I never expected them to last 200,000km.

    I later bought a new set of tyres which have done about 30,000km. They probably have about 20 - 30,000 km left. So these shocks probably didn't last as long as the tyres will. The rear end has been bouncy/bottoming out for at least the last 7,000km ie the start of the last trip.
    L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
    Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
    Track Trailer ARN 200-117
    REMLR # 137

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by Graeme View Post
    I beg to differ. The adjustment is to set the rebound as required whereas worn seals will affect both bump and rebound.

    I didn't state that the shocks were worn-out by 30K, rather that by 30K the seals have worn enough to not re-use them if the shock is being dismantled for valving adjustments.
    Your original post doesn't really read that way

    BTW, Koni have always stated that the rebound adjustment is to compensate for wear.
    I use it to get the rebound I want, then down the track adjust for 'wear' if I'm not at maximum rebound already.

    No one would ever re-use a piston band and shaft seal on a re-valve, I've always replaced them even if only several hundred miles old, they are always considered consumables.
    FWIW Koni have only been using piston bands since the early eighties, earlier versions just used a plain piston.

    A twin tube Koni uses a bleed on the shaft for low speed rebound control and a coil spring loaded shim for high speed rebound.
    As you increase the adjustment bleed ports in the shaft are progressively closed to increase low speed and the coil spring is progressively pre-loaded to increase medium/high speed rebound valving.

    Bump valving is controlled by a shimmed stack on the foot valve at the base of the damper.
    As the piston travels down the pressure cylinder/working cylinder, volume is reduced in that cylinder by the encroaching shaft which displaces fluid through the foot valve at the base of the working cylinder into the reservoir tube or outer cylinder. ie. the state of the piston band has no effect on bump valving.

    You need to pull the damper apart to alter the bump valving.
    Generally you change the foot valve, they are flowed and calibrated from the factory, but you can change the stack pre-load with the locating screw and if you're game or know what you are doing you can reduce the stack height to increase low/medium speed bump, increase the stack height to reduce low/medium speed bump (counter intuitive, but you are changing the stack pre-load)

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