Thread: New shocks - 6WD

clean them up and look for any branding or markings as a start point. Yes closed and open lengths are the first thing and very important. If you can find out valving you can have a guess and then if you buy good shocks and get them revalved if they dont suit.

being pin/pin front and pin/eye rear they could very easily be LR oem shocks, or similar. It would make sense for the makers to use something simple and off the shelf.....

On the rear most of the damping is provided by the interleaf friction of the leaf springs. So apart from getting the length right, the damping is not critical. You could drive around with all 4 rear shocks removed and barely notice the difference. So in short - any quality shock the right length will be fine on the rear.

One the front damping is more critical, as coils provide no damping - however you have 2 shocks to share the damping at each corner. Bilstein or Koni (or equivalent) are the only shocks I would fit to a coiler personally.

being twin shocks , and for what you are intending use wise , just standard shocks will be perfectly adequate if they are right length. They will be working half as hard as they were designed to so should last quite a while.

So i worked out the max compressed height for the front and rear.

front is 420mm
back is 400mm

From what everyone has said any decent (OEM or better) shock will do the job as long as it's compressed length is within the limits?

The shocks on there at the moment are monroe (all apart from 1 anyway) and are pretty shot.

Jitterbug,
if its not too much hassle - any chance of a better view of how they have attached the lower damper mountings to the axle housing???
Are those plates welded to the housing or bolted to the inside of the flange and spring mount?

S

I have mine close to so grabbed a couple of pics.
Same system

Thanks muchly
So it picks up the two radius arm bolts - on th eoutside is it bolted with the lower swivel hub bolts or simply welded to the axle tube?
S

No welding , just bolted