Spot on
I would only use a second nut to tension the first with threadlocker, then remove the 'non threadlocked' first nut.
Kinda sounds like who's on first.............
Dc
trailing arm?
Spot on
I would only use a second nut to tension the first with threadlocker, then remove the 'non threadlocked' first nut.
Kinda sounds like who's on first.............
Dc
are you absolutely sure you will never need to undo that nut?
if its a trailing arm....
I've only ever used 243 or 262 on them.
243 for the rover cheese ones
262 for the aftermarket ones.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
If that's the case I'd just use an M22 8.8 or 10.9 nyloc nut and be done with it.
If you can get a metal thread locking nut like an aircraft K nut in a metric thread, I trust them a little more in critical spots but their only real advantage is they're lighter with the reduced hex and almost infinitely re-useable, but a good nyloc nut would be fine.
It's not the rear lock nut
This nut sits at the front and gives you something to adjust the length by turning the whole pin, which is threaded into the trailing arm
So to adjust back of the retaining nut then the nylock nut jammed against the pin then turn the threadlocked nut to required length to set pinion angle, wheelbase ect....
Serg check your gmail??
Gotto learn how to post photos....
Basically I don't want this nut to move period!
Dc
Dc,
Is the M22 thread going in to a threaded bung that is welded into the main arm, and then the lower bush attached to the M22 thread? And then a nyloc lock nut to lock it?
Or is the only engagement of the M22 thread a single nut that is welded to the trailing arm tube?
Either way - Is it just me who thinks that for a trailing arm M22 (minor diameter is 19.5mm) seems under gunned? The standard cheese sticks wouldnt be much under 19.5mm solid for torsional strength. Are you sure you dont want to just have non adjustable links that are made to the correct length?
S
Machine some flats on the pin ?
http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/image20.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/image19.jpg
http://www.aulro.com/app/data/500/medium/image21.jpg
Hope this works for my junk
I've allready programmed my GPS to avoid bus loads of nuns so the engineer is happy with that
Flame away!!!
Dc
How do I get photos to show up instead of the link??
I do the ' take photo with iPhone upload to gallery copy paste link from gallery into my reply' thing....?
Dc
Steve the m22 is just for the adjustable section, engineer reckons 4140 in that part is good
I will make solid pins for non adjustable TA's
All these TA's can be cranked to suit lifts
I plan for some magnetic particle testing of all welds,X-ray of welds and destruction testing against a newish arm
The engineer wants a welding process and he's happy
Did HSV rangie ever get on AULRO??
Last edited by modman; 7th August 2013 at 09:58 AM. Reason: Zombies coming!!
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