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Thread: Adjusting Headlights on RRC

  1. #1
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    Adjusting Headlights on RRC

    Hi All,

    I removed the front headlight surrounds and grill on my 1981 RRC 2 Door.
    This included removing sealed beams giving them a good clean up and giving the surrounds and grill a respray in black ....they looks sweet

    Inadvertantly, I've stuffed up the headlight adjustment on low and high beam making driving on low beam on a badly lit road impossible with high beam not being much better

    I vaguely remember as a young lad my dad adjusting headlights by shinging car lights on a brick wall and adjusting them, but what measurement or formula he used to correct them I would'nt know.

    Does anyone know (measurement) or how I can re-adjust them back correctly.

    Cheers

    Baggy

  2. #2
    alien's Avatar
    alien is offline A Keeper of the TGO Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baggy View Post
    Hi All,

    I removed the front headlight surrounds and grill on my 1981 RRC 2 Door.
    This included removing sealed beams giving them a good clean up and giving the surrounds and grill a respray in black ....they looks sweet

    Inadvertantly, I've stuffed up the headlight adjustment on low and high beam making driving on low beam on a badly lit road impossible with high beam not being much better

    I vaguely remember as a young lad my dad adjusting headlights by shinging car lights on a brick wall and adjusting them, but what measurement or formula he used to correct them I would'nt know.

    Does anyone know (measurement) or how I can re-adjust them back correctly.

    Cheers

    Baggy
    I use the brick wall thing too, I then hit a dark road.
    I park close to the wall and put some masking tape on the wall at the centre of the headlamp.
    I do a + sign so I get a left/right and up/down idea.
    On high I focus the lamp central on each of their marks.
    This is done at about 6mtr(20ft) from memory.
    On low beam the top of the beam should be 50mm(2in) below the centre line.

    I'm sure someone will confirm/deny the distance
    Cheers, Kyle



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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by alien View Post
    I use the brick wall thing too, I then hit a dark road.
    I park close to the wall and put some masking tape on the wall at the centre of the headlamp.
    I do a + sign so I get a left/right and up/down idea.
    On high I focus the lamp central on each of their marks.
    This is done at about 6mtr(20ft) from memory.
    On low beam the top of the beam should be 50mm(2in) below the centre line.

    I'm sure someone will confirm/deny the distance
    And here. But I've never actually measured the drop, just made sure they are slightly below level.

  4. #4
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    Here's one easy, quick and ruff method.

    http://www.coolbulbs.com/HID-VISUAL-...MING-PROCEDURE. pdf

    For 25 feet, use 8 metres, and for two inches, use 50mm.

    The above link is Yankee, so the 'kick' for us should be up towards the left, and the bend-point is on the centre-line of the lights.

    Bottom line, is there should be no glare for oncoming traffic OR the car in front. - Lighting up his interior is a give-a-way that All is Not Right....

    Another rule of thumb is.... the cut-off line MUST be below the bottom of his rear window, around level with his rear number -plate.
    Or lower.

    On my '95 Classic, there is a sticker under the bonnet, which indicates a downward angle of - around - 1.4 degrees. This would give 0.8 degrees downward angle... I think.
    Sorry, can't check as son has just borrowed the car...

    ..... to be more pedantic, assuming 1.4 degrees is correct ,then the line under centre would be 56mm when the car is 8 metres from the wall...
    Last edited by superquag; 15th August 2013 at 08:35 PM. Reason: more info to bamboozle....

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