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Thread: Intercooler Replacement

  1. #1
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    Intercooler Replacement

    I am looking to replace my 99 D2 TD5 Intercooler with something fatter.
    Now I could simply fit a facelift intercooler or one of the few after market replacements but I got to thinking..........
    I have a pretty handy bunch of guys at work and was wondering if there was any reason other than space, why one couldn't mount any comparitive or larger non LR intercooler?

    Has anyone bothered?

    Ralph

  2. #2
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    The beauty of the D2 is it has a crossflow IC which makes finding a replacement quite easy, as long as it physically fits and inlet/outlet matches you can use what ever fits.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
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  3. #3
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    I thought so!
    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Maybe an explanation is needed. (Veiled as a call for help!)
    I have been chasing for 2+years now an ever worsening 'turbo lag' like event.

    I say 'turbo lag' like event coz that's what I guess it is. It feels like the mother of all lags. I measured it on the way to the shops and clocked it at 5-6 sec at half-ish throttle and 4-5 sec with the boot in.
    That time is the time from when I stab the go pedal until the boost happens. Interestingly, it's about 1900rpm consistently when the boost occurs.

    I never suspected turbo lag initially coz there was no pattern, but it's quite clear that it's temp related. Start up from cold and no problem but very noticeable (all the time) once at operating temp. I also believe outside air temp has a bearing as well as it is less noticeable on cold mornings/days.

    I have a nanocom so can do a bit of diagnosis and so far I have replaced injector harness (maybe not relevent but it needed doing), MAF, boost modulator and intercooler hoses as well as removed the EGR. All to no effect. Mr nanocom tells me I need still to replace the 'air inlet temp' sensor which I have no doubt has an effect, but surely is not the main problem. I will also remove the centre silencer eventually as well.

    When removing the EGR, I was surprised by the amount of oil residue in the inlet manifold so I started thinking maybe the IC is full of oil and not cooling as efficiently as it should. I then thought, if I am gunna remove the thing and clean it, (PITA) I'd fit a D2 upgrade IC instead. I then got to thinking, any old cross flow IC should work, hence my post.

    What have I missed? I have only driven one other D2 and it was a V8 so I have no comparison but I can't handle this lag any more!

    To paraphrase nigerian scammers, "Please advise soonest"

    Ralph

  5. #5
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    clean your intercooler fore sure but if your chasing alter market i.c check out ally sport i.c from england really top gear

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph1Malph View Post
    Maybe an explanation is needed. (Veiled as a call for help!)
    I have been chasing for 2+years now an ever worsening 'turbo lag' like event.

    I say 'turbo lag' like event coz that's what I guess it is. It feels like the mother of all lags. I measured it on the way to the shops and clocked it at 5-6 sec at half-ish throttle and 4-5 sec with the boot in.
    That time is the time from when I stab the go pedal until the boost happens. Interestingly, it's about 1900rpm consistently when the boost occurs.

    I never suspected turbo lag initially coz there was no pattern, but it's quite clear that it's temp related. Start up from cold and no problem but very noticeable (all the time) once at operating temp. I also believe outside air temp has a bearing as well as it is less noticeable on cold mornings/days.

    I have a nanocom so can do a bit of diagnosis and so far I have replaced injector harness (maybe not relevent but it needed doing), MAF, boost modulator and intercooler hoses as well as removed the EGR. All to no effect. Mr nanocom tells me I need still to replace the 'air inlet temp' sensor which I have no doubt has an effect, but surely is not the main problem. I will also remove the centre silencer eventually as well.

    When removing the EGR, I was surprised by the amount of oil residue in the inlet manifold so I started thinking maybe the IC is full of oil and not cooling as efficiently as it should. I then thought, if I am gunna remove the thing and clean it, (PITA) I'd fit a D2 upgrade IC instead. I then got to thinking, any old cross flow IC should work, hence my post.

    What have I missed? I have only driven one other D2 and it was a V8 so I have no comparison but I can't handle this lag any more!

    To paraphrase nigerian scammers, "Please advise soonest"

    Ralph
    Ralph

    Can you make a recording on the fuelling inputs while taking the D2 for a drive and include a section where you get the long lag.

    Cheers
    Paul

  7. #7
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    Attached is a nanocom file of fuelling inputs. Unfortunately, I recorded it in the evening so I could only get a few medium or short lag events.
    I'll redo it tomorrow.
    The most laggy, about 2-3 seconds is at the bottom.

    Cheers
    Ralph
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by Ralph1Malph; 23rd October 2013 at 07:27 PM. Reason: more info

  8. #8
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    Ralph,

    The IAT (air inlet temp) is swinging between 120°C and -28.5°C, which is pretty much the maximum and minimum values. The ECU uses both the Manifold Pressure and Inlet Temp values to calculate fuelling, so this is likely to be the cause of your issues.

    The fact that it swings between max and min could indicate that the wiring is shorting out to supply and ground. Worth checking out the harness to make sure it's not rubbed, cleaning the MAP/IAT sensor (probably won't help) and once you've eliminated the other possiblities try replacing the MAP/IAT.

    cheers
    Paul

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    Ralph,

    The IAT (air inlet temp) is swinging between 120°C and -28.5°C, which is pretty much the maximum and minimum values. The ECU uses both the Manifold Pressure and Inlet Temp values to calculate fuelling, so this is likely to be the cause of your issues.

    The fact that it swings between max and min could indicate that the wiring is shorting out to supply and ground. Worth checking out the harness to make sure it's not rubbed, cleaning the MAP/IAT sensor (probably won't help) and once you've eliminated the other possiblities try replacing the MAP/IAT.

    cheers
    Paul
    Paul,
    I agree. I knew I had a problem with the IAT. I assumed it would be the sensor but yes, I'll scope the loom now that I have looked at the file

    Ralph

  10. #10
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    I'd definitely sort the iat problem as a first priority.

    The the manifold temp and pressure data is used to calculate the volume of air in each cylinder each cycle and that information is used to determine the quantity of fuel to be inject. There is a default value that the ECU will use - probably 120 but I'd need to check on that - but this will result in "hobble home" performance levels.

    Cheers
    Paul

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