why do wheel bearings come loose?

**uninformed** · 20th November 2013, 08:09 PM

So I finally got to go back into the rear end and redo these wheel bearings. These were done 2 months ago with new bearings installed. The play was not much at all, but I wasnt happy with it. I ended up doing a combination of Bush65's method and the LR method. As I do not have the experience feel of some here, I wanted some torque values to know I wasnt setting the nut way to tight or loose.

I removed the brake calipers so there was no chance of it shadowing my feel so to speak. I started by stripping back so just the adjusting nut was left on. Backing it off and tightening again to LRs spec, spinning, checking and getting a feel. I then used a breaker bar to do it by feel. The 50Nm that LR prescribe isnt very much, so I did a fair bit more. Mind you this is only for seating in, not final setting. I did this a few times: tighten to feel (id say a good 100Nm) spin, back off. Spin, repeat. I then set the adjusting nut to 13Nm (3 more than LR spec) fitted the lock tab washer, installed the locking nut and tightend it to 52Nm. Spun and checked for play. Ths time round I had the wheel installed to check play. The one thing with the wheel on though, even when I had the adjusting nut tight (that approx 100Nm) it was still quite free to spin

I have attached some pics. The lock tab washer is for Pat, these where before I removed to redo. The bolts are to show what clean threads look like AFTER you remove them ( good to see cleaning and chasing threads pays off)

Oh and I had changed from RTV at the drive flange to hub, to using a genuine LR paper gasket and lightly sprayed with Hylomar. Reason being, it seems most things I do, I have to go back in for one reason or another. I hate having to re clean things after being quite thorough. I also found that with RTV, having to chisel off the driveflange ment small scratches, dings etc in the hub face. I redressed this before the use of paper gaskets. The driveflange comes off in your hand, one quick whipe with acetone and you are good to go again. Thanks Rick

**Davo** · 21st November 2013, 11:48 AM

I wouldn't bother with all that torquing stuff. Just push and pull the hub to feel for endfloat and adjust until there's just none at all. 100Nm on wheelbearing nuts just doesn't sound right to me. And even then the wheel had better be free to spin or you've got a real problem!

By the way, where's all the usual grease or oil leaking out of the bearings? It's always a mess when I do that sort of a job. (Nice work on the bolts, too.)

**uninformed** · 21st November 2013, 12:47 PM

Originally Posted by Davo

I wouldn't bother with all that torquing stuff. Just push and pull the hub to feel for endfloat and adjust until there's just none at all. 100Nm on wheelbearing nuts just doesn't sound right to me. And even then the wheel had better be free to spin or you've got a real problem!

By the way, where's all the usual grease or oil leaking out of the bearings? It's always a mess when I do that sort of a job. (Nice work on the bolts, too.)

Hi Davo, the 100Nm was, A: just a guess by feel and comparison to the torqued 50Nm and B:, only the seating force of the adjusting nut, not the final value of it (i.e. backed of and slightly nipped up to 13Nm) This before the lock tab washer and lock nut installed.

Oil, well I did one side at a time. Yes I did the no no of working off a jack (trolley). With the side im working on raised the oil tends to flow away from the open end. Yes it still dribbles but I keep up to that with a rag. No grease as my axles/bearings etc are all one compartment oil feed/lubed. Oh and the bolts, if It wasnt clear, thats what they looked like when removed, no cleaning

They were cleaned last time round (2 months ago)

**Judo** · 21st November 2013, 02:56 PM

Originally Posted by uninformed

The one thing with the wheel on though, even when I had the adjusting nut tight (that approx 100Nm) it was still quite free to spin

I'm still on this. If that's the case, then surely taking the free-play out of the bearing and "checking the wheel still spins freely" as some people have said - is a load of B.S. (No offence to anyone).

Unless I have misunderstood some descriptions of procedures...

**Davo** · 21st November 2013, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by Judo

I'm still on this. If that's the case, then surely taking the free-play out of the bearing and "checking the wheel still spins freely" as some people have said - is a load of B.S. (No offence to anyone).

Unless I have misunderstood some descriptions of procedures...

I used to have the wheel on while I did the adjusting but it was more trouble than anything. All you're really doing is removing the endfloat, or at least minimising it, so now I do it with just the hub on.

**flagg** · 21st November 2013, 10:13 PM

Sort of OT but sort of not.. The level of oil in the axle housing is below the stub shaft.. so the axle doesn't sit in an oil bath. With this in mind, if you are oil lubricating should you re oil the bearings? Go around corners quickly to get the oil moving over them?

(I squeeze some oil over them as best I can during re-assembly)

2stroke · 22nd November 2013, 05:46 AM

I have the maxi setup with no seals on the axles. I always pack the wheelbearings with grease on assembly, then when it's time to fill the diff I put the wheels on, jack the driver's side up about 2 inches and pump it in, that way it runs into the long tube and when the filler plug is in and I drop it down it runs into the drivers side.
From memory the maxidrive literature says something to the effect of "fill the diff ti 1/2 way up the filler hole". Always found that amusing.

**Bush65** · 22nd November 2013, 05:51 AM

All bearings, wheel bearings, all bearings in an engine, unless designed to run without, need to be lubricated during assembly. There are the odd exceptions, such as the staved bearings of ship propeller shafts, which are lubricated by sea water.

IMHO use some grease during assembly of oil lubricated wheel bearings.

**Bush65** · 22nd November 2013, 06:03 AM

When bending the tab washer, the important part is that it is bent down against the right hand end of the flat on the nut. The tab washer is not to prevent the nut falling off, it is to prevent the slightest nut rotation in the loosening direction. This what is shown in this pic is fine for the inner nut because you don't want to increase the pre-load while bending over the tab washer.

I wouldn't go to the trouble pulling the flange off and doing it again, but keep in mind for future reference.

**uninformed** · 22nd November 2013, 07:47 AM

I can fill my rear axle set up well above the normal point if needed. In the front I have fillers in the swivel housing and also in the driveflanges.

I always flood the bearings with oil on assembly. Not just the cone, but the cup and stub axle. On filling I then park the car on a side slope and change around after a while.

John, do you mean I should have bent that tab over further to the end of the flat it is on, or choose another flat on the right side?

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