Reply With QuoteWhat are the m & s lights doing whilst you've got poor throttle response ? With SWMBO's D2a flashing m &s lights meant the xyz switch (inhibitor switch) on the transmission had failed. In 275 000 KM we've replaced it approx. five times.
Deano
Fossicker
Hi all,
We own a 2000 Disco 2 TD5 Auto, and so far it's been a beautiful car to drive. Recently it started having problems with the M and S lights flashing, which several mechanics failed to fix, but today we pulled off the red plug on the ECU and found small amounts of oil inside. We used contact cleaner to remove the oil and as soon as we have the money we'll replace the injector harness. We tested by driving to the rubbish tip and so far the lights haven't come back.
But that's all beside the point (I'll leave the information in here, though, in case it turns out to be helpful in diagnosing).
The biggest issue at the moment is that, from a standing start, planting your foot will take 2-3 seconds to respond. The engine revs don't increase at all for a genuine 2-3 seconds, no exaggeration. When the engine finally decides to respond, it absolutely flies forward (which is amazing given the thing weighs two tonnes!), but since you've already taken your foot off the brake, you've rolled forward into the intersection and with a semi baring down on you, having to wait for the engine to stop daydreaming can be really, really dangerous (not to mention terrifying). Obviously we are well aware of the problem and avoid trying to race through small gaps at all costs, but sometimes it just happens and when it does, it would be nice to have the power available immediately and not in 2 or 3 seconds' time.
SOMETIMES, on rare and wonderful occasions, I'll be driving around town and suddenly notice that I can pull through intersections with the immediate response that I expect. It's such a relief when this happens and I can drive the thing without having to plant my foot at a time that would normally mean you T-bone the guy passing across in front of you. This good throttle response never lasts very long, and half an hour later you're back to pressing the throttle well in advance of when you need it.
Do you guys had any ideas as to what the problem might be? I've read that it might be the ECU waiting for a signal from a failing/failed mass airflow (MAF) sensor before switching to defaults, but I don't know where the MAF is or how to check it.
Also, pressing the throttle down more gently can make the revs come up far sooner, but there's still a bit of a delay. Once you're moving the engine responds well to sudden throttle presses (as far as I remember; it actually might do the same thing but we just haven't noticed because you don't normally need sudden acceleration when you're cruising), just not when you're stopped or moving slowly.
Any help would be much appreciated!Thanks,
David
ChatterBox
SubscriberWhat are the m & s lights doing whilst you've got poor throttle response ? With SWMBO's D2a flashing m &s lights meant the xyz switch (inhibitor switch) on the transmission had failed. In 275 000 KM we've replaced it approx. five times
Deano
Fossicker
Thanks for the replyOriginally Posted by DeanoH
What are the m & s lights doing whilst you've got poor throttle response ? With SWMBO's D2a flashing m &s lights meant the xyz switch (inhibitor switch) on the transmission had failed. In 275 000 KM we've replaced it approx. five times
The M and S lights are almost certainly unrelated to the throttle situation. The first time we had the problem with the M and S lights flashing, I pulled the XYZ switch out and pulled it apart. It didn't appear to have any water inside it, but I cleaned it out anyway and sealed it back up with silicone, so there's definitely no water inside it. It was all working fine after that, but a few months later the M and S lights came back on.
The M/S lights show no relation to the delayed throttle response whatsoever. We've had the delayed throttle as far back as I can remember, and we've own the car for several years now. The M/S lights issue is comparatively recent (within the last year or so) and the delayed throttle still occurs regardless of the M/S light status.
David
Wizard
SupporterYou might need to find another member with a Nanocom to read any codes.What location are you in? So that someone might read the codes for you.
Wizard
Yes I'd be checking the MAF sensor as first port of call.
It is found on the engine side of the air filter box. A quick test is to unplug the electrical connector attached to it and take the car for a run. If it goes ok then it is likely to be the sensor. From there getting access to a nanocom and looking at the airflow readings and/or testing MAF resistances with a multimeter, will confirm the diagnosis.
It also never hurts to check the wiring from the sensor to the ecu for damage either.
Cheers
Steve.
Swaggie
Also if the wiring across the front of the head has lost its insulation then the power wire for the MAF may have shorted and blown the fuse.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Fossicker
Northern Tablelands, NSW, around half way between Glen Innes and Tenterfield. We've been considering purchasing a Nanocom ourselves with the amount of faults we've had, but they're awfully expensive
Excellent, thanks. I'll give that a go tomorrow morning right after we finish stripping the tailgate latch mechanism apart, fixing it and putting it back together
That's a possibility, but even if that is the case (that the insulation has rubbed through), it probably hasn't blown a fuse because just occasionally everything works and there's no delay in the throttle. I'll certainly give a good going-over, though.
Thanks for all the help, guys! I'll see if I can't get our wonderful Land Rover working like new tomorrow
Swaggie
SubscriberI wonder if you have 2 separate problems. the M&S lights are transmission related, but can be affected by the MAF.
The delay to me could be a dirty MAP sensor. This sensor is located on the inlet manifold and tells the ECU how much boost is being developed and if dirty could become sticky. It is easy to get at by taking off the engine cover undoing 2 screws and a plug. Spray some electronic cleaner into it but do not attempt to dig out the carbon that comes from the EGR with anything solid.
It costs nothing and takes 10 minutes so is worth doing.
Regards Philip A.
Fossicker
That's what I assumed, but I put the information about the M&S lights in there in case there was the unlikely possibility they were related to the delayed throttle somehow.
Hmm...so there's two possible sensors that could be causing the issue. The MAF and the MAP (which I assume stands for manifold pressure). Excellent, gives me something to check right now; I can only check the MAF by starting the car and taking it for a test run, which I can't do right now with the tailgate latch in pieces
So the MAP sensor can be damaged easily with physical cleaning, then? Just in case I happen to break it, what prices would I be looking at for a new MAP?
David
Swaggie
SubscriberYou will not break it with electronic spray. There is a big hole with a very small hole at the bottom, and they can get completely clagged by carbon. There is a photo on another post today.
then? Just in case I happen to break it,
Spray away until the little hole is clear of gunk.
Regards Philip A
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