Thread: Defender - pulling to the left under acceleration

I would just take it to a specialist and have it sorted, it is way easier and only costs around $60-70.

After re-reading, you said that when you put the new tyres on, that's when the issue occured? If you still have the old rubber and rims, I would whack them on and test it out.

If you have a Detroit in the back with uneven tyre pressures this can happen

I have a manual locker in the rear and it's most noticeable on the tarmac.

Tyre pressures were equal on rear and equal on the front.

The effect happened when the tyre pressures were about 40 psi all round and same symptoms when the tyre pressures were reduced to 34 psi front and 36 psi rear.

I had the mechanic replace the rear trailing arm chassis bushes as they were nearing end of life. Tyre pressures were checked by the mechanic. The mechanic's explanation was the ATB with the new tyres.

I'm doubtful that the combination of new tyres with the ATB is to blame. The transition from pulling hard left under acceleration to darting back when you come off the gas is too abrupt. Also it happens on the tarmac when arguably you have equal grip left and right so the ATB should be neutral.

I don't think it's the front axles/cv's. Watching the video from Killingworth on Sat i'm getting drive to both front wheels.

I have ticked off all the simple checks and replaced the cheap and easy possible causes. I'm hoping that someone on the forum has experienced a similar problem and found the fault. It may save me a small fortune to give it to an expert and have them start pulling apart stuff in the hope to find the problem.

cheers MLD

Hi

Its probably not this, but may be worth checking.

When I replaced my rear radius trailing arms with aftermarket bent ones the threads didn't go far enough along to pre-load the chassis end bushes - allowing the axle to walk around with camber and throttle changes.

The result was a bizarre slow frequency steering effect from throttle, road wallows and camber changes. I bought some large washers to pack out end and put some pre-load on the bushes - fixed it.

Put a pry bar in just about every chassis bush they should be tight - Its in there somewhere. Muddies are usually not very directional and/or stable and highlight the chassis issues.

Checked swivel preload and TRE's too.

Clive

If you don't find anything wrong with the bushes you should be able to isolate the ATB by dropping the front prop shaft, locking the CDL and taking it for a spin in 2WD.

Steve

Edit: thinking further outside the square - you haven't accidentally ended up with 2 different size tyres on the front have you? I reckon that would upset the ATB!

It will be because either the front or rear (probably the rear) axle is free to move about a vertical axis. This will probably be the bushes where the lower link goes onto the rear axle, but could be the chassis bushes for the lower link, or the bushes on either end of the front radius arms.

Other (unlikely) possibilities include a broken or loose chassis mount, broken chassis, loose wheel bearing, dragging brake or wheel bearing, loose wheel, but these would normally be showing other symptoms!

John

I'd still be inclined to get the radius/trailing arm bushes checked out.

I've had brand-new, trailing arm bushes give out on me, which was an interesting experience on the Great Ocean Road!!??!!

M

I would also put money on rear trailing arm bushes. Pull to the left on accelleration and to the right when off the throttle. Sometimes the bolts can be the problem. Make sure the bolts are the correct ones, not worn, and a snug fit in the bushes.