Thread: Blown head gasket 99 300 TDI

Hi Bolton,
Welcome to AULRO,

The black coolant expansion tank do have a reputation for splitting, I don't know how common it is but certainly a known thing to replace.
The opaque white one are supposedly better.

If the tank split and it's dumped the coolant then a head gasket is very likely, possibly the head as well. You will need to get it checked for hardness.

When it's all fixed make sure it gets a low coolant alarm.

Sorry I can't help with the quote, I do all my one work on the Landy.

Tony

Ditto what TonyC said.
$4k is a little steep.
The surface of the head can go soft after overheating and fairly sure they can't be machined.
A new head from Turners is only 410 GBP + postage.
300TDI engine parts from Turner Engineering, LDF500180 cylinder head


I'd have a look at it for you, but you're on the wrong side of the country.

What vehicle is it, Defender or Disco?

As Tony said above, common for the older black expansion tanks to split at the seam and drop their guts….result is HG etc.

If it is a Defender, the OEM temp gauge are a POS and will only read high after it is too late and way too high. Change it out for a basic VDO or such.

So if indeed the HG is buggered, the head will need to be checked for cracks, hardness etc. If its warped it will need skiming. If its buggered, best place to source one is Turners in the UK. Do that bit yourself.

If the head is coming off, I would highly recommend the raditor removed, end tanks pulled and it rodded out if it isnt buggered. New expansion tank and thermostat will also be required. Only use "Erling" brand HGs. And dont get cheap head bolts if these are being replaced. I would also think new lash caps and valve stem seals be normal practice...

funny, but since its a normalised gauge and sender..

once it starts to move north of normal you've still got room to save the engine.

is your gauge scan cycle more than 15 seconds?

Fair warning I blew more than $3k on the wifes motor when she baked the head. But I also upgraded some bits on the way in (rebuilding the water cooled turbo didnt help)

Get the head checked out first, use the genuine bolts, thermostat and the Elring gasket. I always source my parts out of MR automotive, Clean check and double check the block for flatness and inspect the tops of the pistons for burning or damage around the combustion chamber and very closely with each piston at TDC for any damage around the top edge. Check each bore at BDC for any damage and exessive out of round or pitting.

replace all the hoses and once youve replaced all the hoses, get the thing pressure tested, watch for leaks at all the core plugs, and the aircon drains, chances are that you have potentially cracked the heater matrix. If the radiator is old have it pulled and independently tested, specify that you want the oil cooler integrity tested.

A low coolant alarm fitted at the thermostat housing fill bung will let you know long before the temp gauge that somethings gone wrong.

Even with a new cylinder head supplied, 4k is over the top IF the rest of the motor passes muster. New head is under 1K delivered from UK, head gasket plus associated gaskets about $150, coolant tank under $100 delivered, labour i would guesstimate at a full day so approx. $500.
Less than half of your quote even if you factor in a radiator rodding.

$4k for tow in drive away with 12 months warranty on parts and assosciated labour is a little steep but its not outragous.

if it was me doing the work to my standards with you supplying all the parts Id probably ping you $750 for labour for the whole 9 yards.

if you want a quick and dirty, you'd get away with maybe $300-350 depending on how hard it fought.

Originally Posted by uninformed

What vehicle is it, Defender or Disco?

As Tony said above, common for the older black expansion tanks to split at the seam and drop their guts….result is HG etc.

If it is a Defender, the OEM temp gauge are a POS and will only read high after it is too late and way too high. Change it out for a basic VDO or such.

So if indeed the HG is buggered, the head will need to be checked for cracks, hardness etc. If its warped it will need skiming. If its buggered, best place to source one is Turners in the UK. Do that bit yourself.

If the head is coming off, I would highly recommend the raditor removed, end tanks pulled and it rodded out if it isnt buggered. New expansion tank and thermostat will also be required. Only use "Erling" brand HGs. And dont get cheap head bolts if these are being replaced. I would also think new lash caps and valve stem seals be normal practice...

All the above available from Turner's. Hopefully one of the mechanics will pop up and tell you how many hours it is to change a head. You will probably get a head and bits plus coolant bottle and radiator reconditioning all up worst case for $2000, that leaves $2000 for labour. I think that a mechanic could have a head off and replaced in a day. I think you could do a little better than $4k.


The problem would be if you have cracked rings or gouged the cylinders then you will be looking at more work or a replacement motor. A second hand one might do the trick, but at that stage you would be looking at $4k or possibly more.

Lets hope you get a mechanic come a long and give you a professional opinion.

Hi,

Having just done the very same job on a cooked disco, I can recommend the main supplier mentioned.

New replacement head, complete with valves/springs, three hole elring gasket, re grind gaskets, valve caps, water pump, thermostat, p gasket, head bolts, big end bearings, big end cap nuts, rings, expansion tank, lid and freight will not be half of 4g. (Suggestion- for about $25 or so, get one extra ring set, just in case you break one! The postage for a single ring set is way more than the cost of rings....)

Order Monday night, parts arrive at work Wednesday or Thursday at latest. Best tell the receptionist to expect a package she can't lift....mine gets a bit cranky when that happens!!

Radiator rodding was 200. The original one was stuffed and unrepairable, but I had an old deefer one that came up ok.

Dropping the sump, pulling pistons, quick hone (it had been left with water in the pots and was a tad rusty!) clean/inspect pistons, replace rings doubles the time, but I reckon it's well worth it.

I also reckon that on the defender, the expansion tank cops a bit of sun through the gap under the bonnet, which seems to cause crazing and cracking. So I have tried putting some Aldi aluminium tape over it to prevent uv degradation. Long term experiment, as I got about 5 years out of the last tank.

Gumnut