Printable View
If you want.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
The disco and rrc engine bay is tighter and more integrated than the defenders. Even fitting a decent intercooler requires a lot of chopping. Let alone two cylinders more than a 4BD1T.
I wouldn't swap indirect injection engines into anything. Their fuel economy and power aren't good enough.
Yes, you're right re the Indirect engines being worse on fuel, and you do have to spend a lot to get them to boogy. It was cheeper for me to buy and ship the 6Bt and box I wanted out of the UK than to buy one here.. Approx $3000 inc shipping and clearance as oppose to $7000+ for one here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
Re 6Bt in Disco or Rangie... Yeah, it's a huge amount of work but it has been done... The Isuzu is prob the way to realistically go in this case.
I see *a lot* of work done at both ends of the engine bay to fit that in. Got any more info?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sitec
I'm wondering what the rest of the driveline was. It'd be easier in an LSE with the extra wheelbase to push the transfercase backwards. The real hassle with the rangie and disco is the heater box right in the middle on the other side of the firewall. I think soft-dash went to a different heater unit that was off to one side.
But it's a lot tidier conversion than the toyota 1HZ shown on pirate a few years back. That had the bumper stepped forwards in the middle.:o
*edit*
Found it on youtube, yep it's a soft-dash. Still using the R380. Oh dear.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=scUl-BPWw2s"]Ranger Rover Cummins 6BT 5.9 - YouTube[/ame]
And sold on ebay for 4,000 quid: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ranger-Rov...p2047675.l2557
Seeing as we're being a bit unrealistic ....
How about a certain Chinese 4WD that comes with a Cummins 2.8 litre, 120kW / 360 nM engine.
Buy the car.... take out the engine/gearbox/BW transfer case and scrap the rest.!
Should work out about the same cost......:angel:
PS, We used to tow 2+ tonnes with a little 300 tdi, slow in getting going, but over 70 and would just keep accelerating. Better than the tweaked 3.5 it replaced.
Unless I've missed something, that's a ZF gear shifter in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dougal
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/12/201.jpg
Show me how to use one of those in an R380 and I'll buy you a beer :p
I sometimes change gears without the clutch, but completely removing the pedal is a whole nother level aswell!Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
Interesting. The eBay add he sold it in said r380. I missed that glimpse in the video.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
The Eblag link you put up gave me a re-direct as it had expired, but I did think to check that.
My speed reading has failed me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disco Muppet
RR 380 auto.:angel:Quote:
Originally Posted by ebay auction
I wonder how the new owner is getting on with a drivetrain suitable for ~400Nm and an engine that can easily deliver twice that?
If you are doing this to save money, do your homework- you have the time, so plan it out - every nut and bolt.
In nsw/act you would be up for $1200+ in engineering alone and that assumes you got everything right first go.
You will need to think about gearing and torque curves and exhaust and air filters and engine looms and weight changes on the front end etc.. The engine is the easy bit :)
For the gearing graph it out in excel and make what you choose will be drivable. Prep costs nothing and getting it wrong is expensive!
Doing major mods to save money is fantasticly silly idea but swinging spammers with your dad to keep your disco in the family is an awesome idea.
Make sure you start a thread and ask lots if questions!