If it 'aint genuine Land Rover, or approved OEM, don't touch it. Bob
Thanks Sheldon - a good "real life" description.
Just out of interest - the "bung" into the water jacket in the side of the head that you described - these can be difficult to replace if one fails. The one on my old D2 (now the son's car) recently started leaking, and was found to be badly corroded.
Tried to get a replacement from Land Rover - listed but not available. So by taking measurements and tracing down alternatives - Subaru uses an exact equivalent bung that is readily available.
This was discovered by Steve at Lifestyle 4WD in Morley, WA.![]()
Cheers .........
BMKAL
If it 'aint genuine Land Rover, or approved OEM, don't touch it. Bob
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
Thanks for the report mate.
It is a pity somebody has to be the Pioneer who gets arrows in his derriere.
( it is usually me - Tin Pellets, Hiclone etc etc )
Regards Philip A
Hi all,
Thought I would provide you with a couple of pictures to show you what I was dealing with and why the car was not "happy" (and neither am I)!
This is the crack on the top side . . .
. . . and this is the crack underneath that I discovered only when I removed it to put the original header back on!
I am thinking of taking it to an exhaust place to see if I can get it welded up and reinforced as I still think there was some improvement in throttle response with it installed (before it self-destructed), although of course there could have been some wishful thinking in that feeling!
Will keep you all posted!
Sheldon
PS. Sorry for the large pics but the devil is in the detail and these pictures do speak volumes!!
Bin it mate. All you need is 1 bit to crack off and you will kill your turbo. Its not worth it.
Hi all,
Just got back from a well-known performance exhaust place close to me and they told me that it would not matter how many times they might weld it back together, it will just keep on cracking. Something about thermal stress and weight of the turbo and how thin the walls of the tube are. They said that they used to build this sort of thing for clients a while ago but they could not stop them from cracking either so they gave up.
He said that if I wanted a tubular system like this it would need to be manufactured from steam pipe (something like 4mm-thick walls) to cope with the heat and the stress, otherwise it would need to be cast iron much like the original. Interestingly, Allisport said the same thing about their experiments with trying to develop a tubular unit before they apparently gave up and went down the casting route.
So, in summary, save your money as I'm about to put $400 in the bin!
Sheldon
PS. On a brighter note, I contacted the seller and showed them the photos. They wanted to send me another exhaust header but I naturally did not want another one so I negotiated that they send me one of their aluminium 'high-performance' radiators instead. So, I guess I haven't really 'lost' my $400 but I have paid $400 for a radiator that sells for $375!!Hopefully their radiators last longer than their exhaust headers!!
On petrol cars the steam pipe collector manifolds do give a quicker spool up than standard.
My son had a Cordia Turbo about 20 years ago and he bought a steam pipe 4 into 1. It was a bugger to put on as they had forgotten to leave room for a spanner to do up one of the nuts. I ended up getting a bolt welded to the flange so that it could be fitted. LOL
I did improve low down response.
Similarly I had a Charade turbo and replacing the ( empty) cat converter housing with a 21/2 inch dump pipe which made a world of difference to spool up.
It probably won't improve outright power as the wastegate will limit that but they do add a bit especially at lower revs.
Regards Philip A
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