Do you have the workshop manual? Have you gone through the ignition and EFI troubleshooting guides in the manual?
Okay, I should have said this before I posted my other thread. Anyway, I sold my Golf 4 to buy this Disco1. It took lots of convincing on the wife's side to get it. Now, I have been trying to get rid of a misfire on sylinders 1, 3 and 5 for a while now, infact, ever since I had the car. I somehow managed to get rid of it for one night and it was back the next day again. Not sure what I did, the heart is there tio fix it, the pocket not so willing
Things changed thus far:
injectors
injector o rings
plugs, tried both Champion RN11's and NGK BPR6ES
plug leads, Lucas leads
dizzy cap, Lucas cap
rotor, el cheapo
coil, el cheapo
fuel filter
intake manifold gasket
And now not sure what else to change/check. Only thing left I never changed is the ignition amplifier. Got spark on all leads, injectors all working fine. Could the ignition module somehow be the culprit? How does the spark get controlled on these engines?
Cheers
Do you have the workshop manual? Have you gone through the ignition and EFI troubleshooting guides in the manual?
If you are keen, I would build a Rovergauge as well. https://code.google.com/p/rovergauge/
My experience is that the Rover V8 only likes genuine rotor and dissy cap. I would buy genuine parts as a first thing to do.
Yep, only use genuine cap and rotor and do Beeutey's ignition module upgrade - search forum for the tutorial.
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
wrong air filter ?
Ignition amplifier does cause a lot of problems, mine ran good on petrol but misfired under load on LPG, I blamed the LPG system, turned out to be the ignition amplifier slowly getting weaker!
Hi guys, thanx for the replies and info. I have looked at Bee utye's thread. My landi came with that conversion where the amplifier was moved to just infront of teh air intake box. Gonna get myself the Lucas rotor over the weekend and see what happens. Funny though, I got spark on the plug and leads but still got the misfire. Another thing is, why cant I use my metal feeler gauge to set the air gap?
Also, do you guys recommend using injector cleaner via the break booster/vacuum pipe to clean out the carbon deposits from the combustion chambers?
Tune-up in a can, eh? I'd be looking at the reason for carbon build up first, then possibly replacing the valve stem seals in situ, or doing a ring replacement with the heads and sump off. Have you done a compression test yet? It's pretty important to determine if the engine you're trying to diagnose is actually worth spending time on. These engines are not hard to destroy with either dust inhalation or overheating.
Just a wild thought.
1,3, AND 5 are all on the left bank.
The injectors on the left bank are all fired at once from the ECU and the harnes goes to 7 then to 5,3,and 1..
It is not unknown for the injector wires to crack and ground in front of 7.
Maybe check the continuity of the injector harness and give it a visual inspection or maybe run a bridge from 7 and see if it makes a difference.
Regards Philip A
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