Thread: Ashcroft Force 9, is there anything better?

Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

It is alright to say 1.5"axles but what do you do on the out board end .A ford 28 spline or salisbury axle is the largest that will pass thru the swivel ball or stub axle A 31 spline ford spline will fit thru the ball with some lathe work but the stub axle on the rear requires a new one of better material with a larger bore.You could replace with stubs and hubs off some thing bigger but all the time you are increasing the unsprung weight which is not ideal.The constant velocity joints in the front will be the limiting factor .There is some pics on here of my 9" diffs if interested

AM

Thanks for the info and have looked over your 9" info, some further questions that i cant recall being answered in the fabbed 9" thread.


Why did you use F100 housings over a fabbed 9" centre and splicing in original Rover tubes? Was it to fit larger splines?
Using early F100 housings are they bolt up, if not what mods have to me made to make them fit into a Range Rover Classic and what years can you use?

Who built your 9" conversion and are they willing to make more?cost?

Where was the main supplier of parts, and what brand 3rd, axles(splines) and cvs did you use?

Few questions i know but i need to learn, Thanks in advance

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With Dana 60's (salisbury) and 500hp, you don't need to worry about ground clearance

The joys of the sals is they are BOLT IN, everything can be bought from a manufacturer, nothing is a one off conversion

Originally Posted by rovercare

With Dana 60's (salisbury) and 500hp, you don't need to worry about ground clearance

The joys of the sals is they are BOLT IN, everything can be bought from a manufacturer, nothing is a one off conversion

I agree, bolt in is best, however with the sals you are in effect are running 33's if you are running 35's with the clearance loss under the pumkin. Yes you can shave but you still loose a fair chunk of clearance.
Also they are very heavy, which we have to be carefull of as this car will be road registered and engineered.

The Ford 9" can be built light, (Aluminum 3rd), can handle crazy HP and reduces ground clearance by only 15mm 😏 over a standard range rover housing.

However i still have questions as above?

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I beleive LRA are currently working with Ashcrofts to provide a 9" option for the RRC.

I am keen to find out more about them for future reference, just in case

Unless you have a lathe 800 CH a mill with dividing head or rotary table 60 and 90 degree cutters welder heaps of time and the ability to do the work
The best advise I could offer would be to go with the Salisbury. Even with after market axles with enough torque traction and enthusiasm you will still break axles.You will with the ford as well but not quite as often BTW HP does`nt break
them As for my 9" all parts were sourced on ebay all work done in house apart from heat treatment CVs were Ashcroft 23 spline Sorry cant help with anyone who does these mods and no Ford product will bolt in without extensive work

AM

Originally Posted by Grimace

I beleive LRA are currently working with Ashcrofts to provide a 9" option for the RRC.

I am keen to find out more about them for future reference, just in case

Correct! At this stage, they have decided the 9" is the best way to go for their Storm Series builds and Puma diff replacements, from what i understand Ashcroft was investigated however the best Ashcroft currently provide is a replacment Puma diff. Which imo is not good enough for 500+hp.They have for now discontinued the Force 9😭

LRA are now building a jig (via 9" diff specialist) to fuse the Ford 9" housing and Rover tubes, so you supply or buy your rover housing it comes back with a 9" pumpkin in the middle, Eaton Elocker or LSD and upgraded axles and maybe even upgraded spindles to run 35spline.

They are also considering this for the front also, however as AncientMariner previously mentioned they will be restricted by the swivel for front axle size, however the rear is where you need most of your strength.

LRA will be firestorming a Gunmetal Grey LSE for me in June so we are working together to end up with diffs that are nearly no compromise, they are currently building another firestorm before mine that will be 500+HP and running the same 9" diffs all going well.
Good news is there may finally be a cost effective bulletproof upgrade for high horsepower rovers and the Puma diffs very soon!👍

Would still like to hear more from people who are running Ford 9" currently?

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Originally Posted by Ancient Mariner

Unless you have a lathe 800 CH a mill with dividing head or rotary table 60 and 90 degree cutters welder heaps of time and the ability to do the work
The best advise I could offer would be to go with the Salisbury. Even with after market axles with enough torque traction and enthusiasm you will still break axles.You will with the ford as well but not quite as often BTW HP does`nt break
them As for my 9" all parts were sourced on ebay all work done in house apart from heat treatment CVs were Ashcroft 23 spline Sorry cant help with anyone who does these mods and no Ford product will bolt in without extensive work

AM

Wow wish i had your skills! Agreed, torque is the killer its just easier to write HP and usually where there is big HP there is big torque, however LRA's recent announcment may give us another option. Apparently around $5-6k per end.
Ok so you went from 31spline to 23spline on the front? What about the rear and who built your axle shafts?

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Rover housing V Ford 9 housing..15mm less clearance!

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