Seems strange but Extreme rear brake pads wear first. I had to change mine at 60,000 km service and the fronts will need changing at 75,000 km. Don't make them like they used to.
Regards, Barry
I just got word from Land Rover service that after 40,000kms in my 2003 Defender 110 TD5 that my rear discs are almost finished and the pads have another 5000ks to go. This means that rear discs and pads are in need of replacement at about 45k. This seems odd given that the front discs and pads are supposedly ok. How could the rears burn out before the front? Is this occurance at 45k something that is beyond normality for this vehicle?
Seems strange but Extreme rear brake pads wear first. I had to change mine at 60,000 km service and the fronts will need changing at 75,000 km. Don't make them like they used to.
Regards, Barry
Same with the Disco, according to Rovertech this is normal for the rear pads
RichardK
Series IV Matrix Offroad Camper following our Discovery 3 with E Diff, BAS Remap, Mitch Hitch, Uniden UHF, Codan NGT HF, Masten TPMS, Proquip Compressor Guard, ARB Winch Bar, Milemarker Hydraulic Winch, 4x4 Intelligence Rear Wheel Carrier, VMS GPS with Rear Camera,
Can't speak for the current models but it was the same for older Rangies as well. I used to swap inner right rear with outer left rear and vice versa to even up the wear as the inside pads used to wear faster than the outer pads (no idea why)
Bushie
1998 Defender
2008 Madigan
2010 Cape York
2012 Beadell, Bombs and other Blasts
2014 Centreing the Simpson
VKS-737 mob 7669
Just replaced the rear brake pads on my 01 Extreme, at 38 000km. I live in the hills area of Perth, and they do get used a little more than most. The fronts seemed okay and I expect to get another 10 000km off those. The wife used to drive a V6 Pajero, and with her roaring about on those important coffee and morning tea meetings, that they "just have to go too". 20 000km was the best I would get from a set of pads on the Paj. 18 000km extra and a damm site easier to change on a landy, I was very happy.
Cheers Tyrepower.
Yep, my '97 defender needed rear pads at 60,000km. Front ones, I was told, are good for another 10,000km. Will trade for a 2001 discovery td5 auto monday week so I guess my brake replacements will continue - only faster.
I bought my Disco with 30k on the clock. I am now at 140k.
The rears were replaced by me at 80k and the fronts at 120k.
Must check the current state of the rears tomorrow.
I am impressed with the life of mine. Mind you the manual Tdi has heaps of engine braking and I drive with minimum braking in mind.
Mahn England
DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)
Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html
Ex 300Tdi Disco:
my 130 is due for new pads and disc at 105000ks
been through 2 sets of pads front and rear
looks like that will sent me back a few bucks![]()
cheers hiline
Sounds like it's got something to do with the braking bias, slightly more to the rear and why might be something to do with load carrying potential... or "stand on the brake pedal" tactics when slowing up.
As for the uneven wear on the pads, more pad wear than the other on the same caliper on single piston systems... which I believe most are, one pad never really releases from the disc. So it constantly rubs on the disc which shows up as wearing prematurely or unevenly. Beauty of this system is they are cheap to manufacture, easily serviced, work reasonably well and give huge power advantage over drums.
Though there is improvement. Twin piston caliper systems, or more up to six psiton, are highly attractive (read:expensive) in the "hoon car" scene as their benifits far outweigh standard disc setups ie the single piston. By moving the pressure point to both sides of the disc there is more uniform clamping of the disc, more even pad wear and uniform heat generation.
Modifying the RR or others with disc setups to twin piston is only for the extreme as custom setups aren't cheap. I find using soft pads like Ferrodo and Bendix extend disc life. I'd much prefer to spend 20 minutes changing the pads than 6 hours changing hubs. Bit like oil changes in the motor, lots of little regular services keep the hounds at bay than big occasional ones. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
All "Classic" RRs, Series 1 Discoveries & Defenders are like this from the factory [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] . Only the current cars have gone away from this, I assume to cut costs :x .Originally posted by Hellspawn
Modifying the RR or others with disc setups to twin piston is only for the extreme as custom setups aren't cheap.
Same here [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] . Depending on the car, it takes quite a few sets of pads to add up to the cost of replacement discs. If I was towing regularly I'd use harder pads though to cope with the heat.Originally posted by and
I find using soft pads like Ferrodo and Bendix extend disc life. I'd much prefer to spend 20 minutes changing the pads than 6 hours changing hubs.
Scott
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