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Thread: Defender 130 300tdi won't start....

  1. #11
    Pindone Guest
    Well I ended up buying it. Ran all the tests suggested then a compression test. cylinders 2,3 and 4 were down. With that, I said off with the head. Nothing but bad news from there, the cylinders were lightly scored. Water in those cylinders too..
    A neighbour who is a mechanic said its too far gone to just hone though.


    I picked up another 300tdi to go so no worries there.


    Next question is, is the engine that overheated worth rebuilding myself? Does anyone know rough costs of what it would be to rebore, and shave head/block etc?

  2. #12
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    Next question is, is the engine that overheated worth rebuilding myself? Does anyone know rough costs of what it would be to rebore, and shave head/block etc?


    -Price is pretty location specific - more important is the shop doing the work...
    - I say strip the old engine - as in proper strip just a bare block no jazz, lightly cleaned. Then put block, crank and cam in the ute.
    -Print out the block specifications for a 300 from the manual just for reference.
    -Drive to friendly engine shop. If the first thing he/she does is go to the tool chest grab a set of micrometers and bore gauges in various sizes - well you have found your machinist. If he grunts and says 4 swear words associated with landrover or some such just keep walking... IMHO of course.
    -By sounds of it you might get away with just a linish to the crank and cam, and 10 thou over bore on the block. New pistons with rings matched to the bores, new cam bearings matched to the line bore on the cam (maybe let the engine shop supply all this for a little fat)... then you can get all the rest from Turners (head/main and conrod shells/gaskets etc etc) Machine work should come in well under a gorilla including full clean, line bore on the cam, new cam bearings, linish on cam and crank and bore/hone on pots with a final decking... Pistons will depends on what they supply...
    -The above will be the most reasonable way to rebuild the old one and quite likely it will be a better engine than the one you sourced AS LONG AS YOU FOLLOW THE 300tdi ENGINE REBUILD MANUAL TO THE LETTER you rebuilt block will be a ripper.

    Anyways, once you are up and running perhaps rebuilding the old one becomes a moot point or perhaps like me you enjoy being able to rebuild to the best of your abilities with absolutely no time pressure. Who cares if it takes you a year to get it all done... Just use litres of light hydraulic oil or some such to keep shiny pieces shiny. I like to throw all bolts/plates/rods etc etc in a 20 litre bucket and fill it with diesel... Long term zero corrosion storage

    Anyways - clearly I am rambling

    S
    '95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
    '10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    ^^^^ all of the above and then get the radiator seen to as it would be suss after the mullock out of the engine was stirred up when it cooked.

    To protect your investment buy a low coolant alarm off Dave's Interesting Things

    https://www.davesitshop.com/emporium...&product_id=48
    .

  4. #14
    Pindone Guest
    Thanks fellas for the advice. Sounds like I will go ahead and rebuild it and take my time as you suggest. It'll be a great educational project. I'll keep the forum posted as to costs I come across as it might help others.

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