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Thread: Rear A Frame Ball Joint is playing up !!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Gold Coast, QLD
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    Also in regard to the front shocks if you have a normal setup or even a long travel shock setup (i have a long travel shock setup) and your shocks are not gas charged you can try this (i did it and was easy)

    Note: you need somwhere to ramp your vehicle to

    Undo the upper & lower shock mounts and ramp the vehicle till the spring is lose then pull the shock out with the spring put the new shock in with the spring and then repeat on the opposite side [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  2. #12
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    Jan 1970
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    Upwey, VIC
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    BINGO !!!

    I have worked it out, it's not the shock absorber, it's not the rear A ball mount.

    It's the passenger side front upper shock mount rubber, it's deteriorated completely...



    This is the drivers side one which is intact at the moment...



    I was wondering how I can get the top bolt off the shocker to replace these rubbers without removing the shocker, because at the moment the bolt and nut are just spinning together !!! Also since this is the orignal shockers I can get these rubbers from a LRO dealer ?

    I surpose though I'll have to remove the whole shocker as the rubber under the mount will be buggered as well !!!

    Matt

  3. #13
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    Jan 1970
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    Newcastle Area
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    Matt, you don't undo the bolt, you undo the nut.
    The bolt is actually the top the shock absorber shaft.
    The nut holds it in place.

    To undo the nut, you must hold the shaft with a spanner.

    To get to the rubbers underneath, you undo the tower and lift it off.
    This is achieved by undoing the nuts at the base of it.

    Don't worry. Nothing is going to suddenly spring loose and cause any damage to the vehicle or you.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Originally posted by Ralf_the_RR
    Matt, you don't undo the bolt, you undo the nut.
    The bolt is actually the top the shock absorber shaft.
    The nut holds it in place.
    Thanks, sorry meant the nut [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

  5. #15
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    Jan 1970
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    I was thinking that I might replace the shocks and springs on the front first, would it be stupid to do this !!! As I can't really afford to do both front and rear at the same time !!!

    I was going to get some slightly uprated "king" springs for the front as I have put a arb bull bar on and second battery (and maybe in the future a winch !!) And replace the shocks with Koni or Bilstein, depending on price !!

    The rear I want to do a bit latter on because I have a 127 litre fuel tank to put in still, will be doing it next month hopefully !! Also plan to finish off my drawers and cargo barrier by end of the year !! So will need to work out how heavy all this will be !!

    Is it alright to replace springs and shockers in the front and then latter on replace the rear setup ? Also does anyone have a rough idea on prices for parts, will install them myself.

    Matt.

  6. #16
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    Jan 1970
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    Brisbane Australia
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    Mat just put some springs a mates TDi, this car also has a big tank, dual bateries and winch bar but no winch. I found standard height Kings in the front and raised in the rear made the car sit pretty right even fully load for 8 weeks in the Kimberly, Brad also has a full lenght rack which had a couple of wheels on it for the trip. He reckons it's fine with this set up. Springs were about $130 a pair I think. I just have standard height kings in mine but don't have a big tank, It is the tank that kills them.

  7. #17
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    Jan 1970
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    Thanks...

    I just spoke to a LR mechanic friend of mine on the way to work and he said to use Pedder (!!) springs and Koni or Bilstein shocks, so I'll see what price he'll give them to me, usually at cost and I'll fit them myself.

    What are the Pedder springs like ? And can anyone suggest a cheaper shocker, as the two I mentioned above aren't cheap !! Will be doing mainly on road driving and one or two trips offroad a year.

    Matt.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Maryborough QLD
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    The Pedders springs are not too bad, used to run a set when I had the air suspension removed and they put them in (Rover Care at Slacks Creek, QLD when it was the original owner).

    I got about 2 years out of them before they sagged badly to the RHS. I use my Rangier off-road aboput once a month at the least (sometime 3-4 times a month). Last time I checked they were about $170 a pair I think.

    Got another set off a mates Rangie when he upgraded to the OME kit (origin unknown) and they are great. Not too hard, great off-road and don't sag!!!

    Reagrds,

    Trav

  9. #19
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    going to try the original LR shockers and levae the current springs in... give that a go for a couple of months and see what it is like !! Maybe later on I'll change it again.

    LR shockers are $83 each.

    Thanks all for info...

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Brisbane Australia
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    Mat they ride better with a set of kings rather than LR, even though they are stiffer the rears don't bottom out the progressive coils as quick and this gives them a nicer ride. Cheap at $130, just do the rears to compensate for the tank. Have you considered a set of Munro magnums. While they are not as good as Konis they do have a 2 year 40KKm warenty if you break them they just give you another set ,about $170 a pair I think.

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