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Thread: 2 Stroke Oil = Dead Fuel Pump

  1. #1
    JC Rover Guest

    2 Stroke Oil = Dead Fuel Pump

    So I tried 2 stroke oil in the diesel at 1:200. The fuel pump died about a quarter of the way through the tank. Coincidence?

    OK it's a TD5 Defender with close to 240k on it, so it's done well to last this long.

    So now I have to get the fuel tank out, which is a long range tank, and last time I took the bolts out, it just hung there and didn't budge. I left the fuel in it this time, so hopefully when i pull the bolts out, gravity will help it out.

    Any ideas how to get the tank out?

    Why do these things happen a week before an important trip?

    Cheers,

    Jono

  2. #2
    Ean Austral Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JC Rover View Post
    So I tried 2 stroke oil in the diesel at 1:200. The fuel pump died about a quarter of the way through the tank. Coincidence?

    OK it's a TD5 Defender with close to 240k on it, so it's done well to last this long.

    So now I have to get the fuel tank out, which is a long range tank, and last time I took the bolts out, it just hung there and didn't budge. I left the fuel in it this time, so hopefully when i pull the bolts out, gravity will help it out.

    Any ideas how to get the tank out?

    Why do these things happen a week before an important trip?

    Cheers,

    Jono



    It done you a favour, better than having it happen 1 week into the trip.


    Cheers Ean

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Why pull the tank out?
    I would fix the pump

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    I cut an inspection hole in the floor without removing the tank. Haven't had to use it in anger yet. I wouldn't let the tank drop, you may well damage the fuel lines,


















    Erich

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Agree with Bundalene on the strategy of cutting a hole in the rear deck to get to the fuel pump. Use a jigsaw with a shortened fine toothed blade or maybe a nibbling device.

    If you have time to purchase this replacement panel, then it's the easiest and neatest option when you put everything back together.
    Mulgo Fuel Pump Inspection Panel - Defender Td5 | Buy 4x4 Land Rover Toyota Nissan Accessories and Parts Online Store | Expedition Centre Australia by Mulgo

    Here's another option, using a marine style screw type access hatch.
    Defender 110 Fuel Pump Access Hatch - 4x4 Community Forum
    The main issue if you do decide to create a "hatch" in the floor is that you'll still need a special tool to undo the retaining ring hat secures the fuel pump. You MAY be able to use a screwdriver and belt it with a hammer.

    Good luck,

    Alan

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    I've thought about cutting a hatch for the fuel pump when it eventually goes, it'll save me some grief no doubt.

    Is there / are there any standard measurements to locate the hole in the correct position?

    Or....

    Failing that, does anyone have a tried and tested strategy for measuring out the correct position and size for the hole required?

    I have an after market long range tank so the position might not be standard just wondering how others have gone about it as I don't really want to hack at the floor more than nesesary.

    Cheers,

    Ian.

  7. #7
    JC Rover Guest
    Thanks for the replies. I'm leaning towards cutting an access hole. Removing the rear drawer system is going to be a pain.

    Hope the pump arrives in time.

    Cheers,

    Jono

  8. #8
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    You meant the lift pump, I thought you meant the injector pump.
    Why does the lift pump have to be in the tank?
    Would not an inline pump be better and easier to get to?
    Leave the old pump there and just suck through it.
    But hey, what do I know. I dont own any modern stuff

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    Found this in a previous au-lro forum.
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...cess-hole.html

    Gives you the location of the hole for a standard fuel tank.
    Not sure how that might work with your after-market tank though.

    Alan

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
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    My TD5 110 has a LRA long range tank fitted, which required a bit of patch work.Before I took it out, an access hole to the fuel pump was cut in the floor,according to my notes the initial pilot hole was cut 380mm from the left hand footwell and 530mm from the rear sill.I don't think I cut completely through the steel supports.The pump in this tank is held in with allen screws not the screw type locking ring.After a fair bit cleaning the hoses were carefully unclipped[13mmm open ended spanner holds the clips open]My pump was ok,so I only made sure I would be able to remove the allen screws, if required down the track ie cleaned and anti seized.
    Removal of the tank was made easy by utilising the local DIY workshop,their hoist and transmission jack had the job done in an afternoon.Mools,I see you are up in Perth give Mandurah Automotive DIY a ring on 0408166073, if you need the gear.
    Make sure it is not the relay that is playing up!

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