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Thread: R380

  1. #11
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    well I have actually read through the WSM, and no where did it say to have a coffee or select 2 gears

    Since im not a mechanic, nor been into a gearbox at all before, I can only go by the WSM. The anti rotation tool I made locks up layshaft 5th gear tight.

    And yes, there is only one staked nut on the Layshaft

    162 lb/ft, but I can tell you it was well past that. Preload the socket??? its attached to a rattle gun! Yes you can grab it firmly to try and reduce the amount it backs off each impact, but it does little. I did this and have done before for oer things, it would help somewhat, but It would have been better if It was able to be undone with the breaker IMO.

    At least its removed now

  2. #12
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    see if you were a mechanic you would have known some of the important things that mechanics know...

    always ignore the first steps in the manual slide all the numbers up a couple because the first steps are almost always.

    Grab a coffee (beer if you're in the field and the OH+S monkies arent around)
    RTFM
    Clean Everything and look for the bits that dont line up with the manual

    and my other favorite.

    Open the bonnet and Insert the mechanic inside the engine bay.....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #13
    350RRC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    .....................

    I didnt want to rattle gun as the socket is not an impact socket................
    Just use all the PPE (): hi vis, earplugs, safety glasses, vietnamese workboots and don't forgot chaps.

    In all seriousness, to quote Blknight: '.......if you have to use the rattle gun you need to keep the preload on the socket in the direction of undo this stops the slop in the gearset from "bouncing" or "chattering" as I called it earlier robbing the impact gun of its inertia........'

    I'd never thought about this before with using a rattle gun, but the principle is indeed exactly the same as using an impact driver. Lean on the problem and apply mechanically multiplied force.

    Thanks Dave.

    DL

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by uninformed View Post
    well I have actually read through the WSM, and no where did it say to have a coffee or select 2 gears

    Since im not a mechanic, nor been into a gearbox at all before, I can only go by the WSM. The anti rotation tool I made locks up layshaft 5th gear tight.

    And yes, there is only one staked nut on the Layshaft

    162 lb/ft, but I can tell you it was well past that. Preload the socket??? its attached to a rattle gun! Yes you can grab it firmly to try and reduce the amount it backs off each impact, but it does little. I did this and have done before for oer things, it would help somewhat, but It would have been better if It was able to be undone with the breaker IMO.

    At least its removed now
    you need a bigger breaker,

    150-162 not even 10%, whats roughly 7.4074074074074074074074074074074% between friends when the numbers are off the top of someones head. hell thats inside the acceptable tolerance for some torque settings

    when you replace the nut spin it onto the shaft by hand with nothing on the shaft and make sure the thread hasnt been deformed (on either the nut or the shaft) it wouldnt be the first time Id seen the fold down bit of the stake nut hit too vigerously and bent in the first thread inside the nut proper. (which if you're unlucky destroys stuff when you try to take it off)

    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post

    I'd never thought about this before with using a rattle gun, but the principle is indeed exactly the same as using an impact driver. Lean on the problem and apply mechanically multiplied force.

    Thanks Dave.

    DL
    almost like hit it with a bigger hammer and if it breaks it needed replacing anyway....
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #15
    350RRC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    .............

    almost like hit it with a bigger hammer and if it breaks it needed replacing anyway....
    Yep, but as I've got older and wiser I've learned not to break things like embedded screws because the time (cost) to remedy is way more than just using all the wisdom, a bit of patience and all the tricks.

    DL

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 350RRC View Post
    Just use all the PPE (): hi vis, earplugs, safety glasses, vietnamese workboots and don't forgot chaps.

    In all seriousness, to quote Blknight: '.......if you have to use the rattle gun you need to keep the preload on the socket in the direction of undo this stops the slop in the gearset from "bouncing" or "chattering" as I called it earlier robbing the impact gun of its inertia........'

    I'd never thought about this before with using a rattle gun, but the principle is indeed exactly the same as using an impact driver. Lean on the problem and apply mechanically multiplied force.

    Thanks Dave.

    DL
    the most common reason for breaking sockets is using std type (non-impact) on rattle guns

    I can tell you that applying more downward force on a impact driver is a lot different to trying to stop the backlash of a 1/2 rattle gun. If you can grab a large 1/2" drive socket and stop it turning in your rattle gun, id say you either need to change it to a higher torque setting or get a new one

    The layshaft 5th gear has 2 cylinder type sections cast into it (early ones have holes through), that pins locate in to stop the gear rotating. By nature of the casting it is not a precision fit, but certainly good enough if loaded up in one direction smoothly. Apply any back and forth movement and the gear rotates taking up the play between pins and gear.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    you need a bigger breaker,

    150-162 not even 10%, whats roughly 7.4074074074074074074074074074074% between friends when the numbers are off the top of someones head. hell thats inside the acceptable tolerance for some torque settings

    when you replace the nut spin it onto the shaft by hand with nothing on the shaft and make sure the thread hasnt been deformed (on either the nut or the shaft) it wouldnt be the first time Id seen the fold down bit of the stake nut hit too vigerously and bent in the first thread inside the nut proper. (which if you're unlucky destroys stuff when you try to take it off)
    Yes the 162 lb/ft from the WSM was to point out that my nut was much higher than the factory setting, hence I was able to break a ok quality 1/2" breaker.

    btw I dont think you can buy a 1/2" breaker bigger than what I have, they all seem to be no longer than 600mm. I guess they figure that leverage on the range strength wise to the square drive.... I found it over

    So it would mean stepping up to 3/4" drive which I dont have any of, and didnt need to spend the $$$ on. Anyway 1/2" is enough for 162 ft/lb....shame it was well past that.

    thread will be checked.

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