Thread: Ring and pinion advice

'02 was the change over from salisbury rear to P38 rear. if your diff cover looks like this you have a sals (the cover is upside down). if round its a P38.



Ashcroft no longer sell a sals C&P. Notwithstanding that Ashcroft, when they sold them, sourced their sals C&P from GBR. If you have a sals and it sounds like you do if you have a MD locker, then get in contact with Bill Davies from GBR Utah. He is a truly helpful gentleman. Not a bad time to be buying from the US with the slightly stronger AUD.

The C&P and diff cover in the photo are from GBR.

If you have a P38 you might want to consider an Ashcroft HDP38 upgrade. You can't retain the MD locker because the HDP38 uses a rover diff centre.

MLD

thanks

I have a P38, thanks for confirming

I would like to retain the locker, would the GBR P38 be a good choice?

Coil Sprung - Diff Gearing

Duarte19, If it is the P38 that opens up options for the Ashcroft set too. Also check out Lucky8 in the US, they sell LR parts and when they do it's usually cheaper than competitors. Just don't ask technical questions. Lucky8, in my experience, leave a lot to be desired on the technical aspects of their products. It's a case of buyer beware and be certain what you order is what you need. Not to be forgotten is a OEM set especially if it is cheaper than the aftermarket.

I'm sure Bill from GBR will be upfront with his assessment of the P38 and his C&P set. I know from my discussions when I was deciding on the salisbury conversion for my Puma that he thought little of the P38 by comparison to the Sals. That's a different conversation and not helpful for your problem.

You might want to consider pegging your P38 to avoid what i suspect is the cause of your problem being flex and movement of the crown from its engagement with the pinion under load. A well documented problem and likely made worse with the locker. Ashcroft sell a pegged P38 diff. Not sure if they will sell the parts for you to fit locally or if they sell a 3rd member pegged ready for you to fit the centre and new C&P. Worth asking.

Sorry, can't help with the overhaul details.

Best of luck, MLD

Have you considered getting the pinion height and lash checked to make the gears mesh properly? I understand the factory set ups were inadequate. Also, look to run an oil that is suitable for hypoid gears despite it being a spiral bevel as they have better sheer resistance. If needed I would be inclined to buy replacement gears from Ashcroft, even if via Lucky8, the Ashcrofts have an understanding of the metallurgy and engineering involved as opposed to selling a product, and they know, sell and manufacture benchmark products and innovate where required. You know it will be a good product. These gear sets are £110 + shipping direct. GBR also do great things, but their cut of crown wheel and pinion in some options is not done in the strongest possible way in my opinion. Re the pegging, I think you will find the locker will have solved a lot of this as a problem. I have witnessed a P38 diffed Defender with a maxidrive locker snap maxidrive axles without any diff damage - some just point blank refuse to believe this is possible, but don't overkill if you don't need to.

Hi,

I'm after the same sort of advice....... GBR vs Ashcroft R&P's for some 24 spline diffs with maxi everything. Maybe I should go to 4.11 to 4.14.

Rear diff rebuild

Currently has stock 3.54's, rear broken but have a replacement that needs new bearings. Not sure what to do.

Looking at the spare diff in pieces makes me realise how tiny the stock teeth are.

cheers, DL

The tooth count on the GBR is 4.10 which isn't a particularly good tooth count in terms of strength. Perhaps an important factor if you're breaking CW/P's. The Ashcroft have stronger tooth count options like the 4.14. Also their research found that most aftermarket CW/Ps were not stronger than standard from a metallurgical perspective and so also changed the materials and/or processes used in their gears to improve this.

I'm not sure, but if noticed today they are also doing reverse cut fronts, where I though the factory gears were cut evenly on both sides of the CW teeth so no need for that. I can only assume they are increasing the drive side strength of the gears also with their new gears.

Thanks,

GBR seem to think their tooth count is better:

Coil Sprung - Diff Gearing

Also surely it would be wise to peg diffs with the teeth designed to be stronger when going forward............just for the odd time when you're in reverse and both diffs are trying to work on the 'coast' side?

cheers, DL

Originally Posted by 350RRC

Thanks,

GBR seem to think their tooth count is better:

Coil Sprung - Diff Gearing

Also surely it would be wise to peg diffs with the teeth designed to be stronger when going forward............just for the odd time when you're in reverse and both diffs are trying to work on the 'coast' side?

cheers, DL

You are correct! My apologies, I was thinking Ashcroft had the 4.14 but that's not the case. Be interesting to hear what the noise differences are also. Also looked like the gears are cut directionally.