Truetrac Diffs What I've Learned.

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Originally Posted by harro

I have Ascrofts ATB's fitted front and rear to my 02my Defender and they have transformed the vehicle.
In sand the vehicle now tends to want to stall before it will bog down and I have not seen the traction control light come on since they went in.
And no noticeable difference to driving on the tarmac.

For offroading, the best money I have spent;)

Paul.

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Like I mentioned - I have a series with Truetrac and detroit locker, I find I run out of power to turn the wheels LONG before I get bogged down.... I can run around on medium soft sand in 2H, but tend to run out of power to turn wheels so then drop to 4L.

I didn't realise that was how the truetrac worked! thanks for posting those videos guys. Must be why I struggle to get stuck :p yes yes I know, "if your not getting stuck you didn't go far enough off the track"

I think that I'm putting a pair of truetracs on the list for the D90! That should be quiet awesome.

I have a TrueTrac in the front (Maxi in the back) of my 110 Isuzu County. As it runs 255/85 tyres and the engine is turbocharged & intercooled, I've also fitted uprated axles and flanges.

You don't notice the TrueTrac when driving on the road. I can't comment on off road performance, as in the years I've had the vehicle it's never really been off road. That will happen soon though.

If fitting a Detroit locker or similar warrants upgraded axles, whats the implications for the Transfer case/Gearbox. I think i would rather snap an axle than transfer the problem elsewhere ?

(One of the main reasons i am looking at LSD rather than Locker)

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Originally Posted by AndyG

If fitting a Detroit locker or similar warrants upgraded axles, whats the implications for the Transfer case/Gearbox. I think i would rather snap an axle than transfer the problem elsewhere ?

(One of the main reasons i am looking at LSD rather than Locker)

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The idea that strengthening one component will mean you break something back up the drivelive is a fallacy.

Btw - the LT230 t-case is the strongest component in most landrovers.

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Originally Posted by AndyG

If fitting a Detroit locker or similar warrants upgraded axles, whats the implications for the Transfer case/Gearbox. I think i would rather snap an axle than transfer the problem elsewhere ?

(One of the main reasons i am looking at LSD rather than Locker)

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Nil implications for the Tcase unless you havent been giving it the love it deserves.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

The idea that strengthening one component will mean you break something back up the drivelive is a fallacy.

Btw - the LT230 t-case is the strongest component in most landrovers.

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I disagree with your first point. if you beef up the weakest link in a system something else becomes the weakest link. In a landy once you bullet proof the diffs and axles its a 50/50 toss between the drive shafts and the gearbox/clutch.
If you're driving a stockish tdi or stock V8 its not really an issue as, short of poor maintenance, general wear and tear, manufacturing defect or prolonged lack of vehicle sympathy (riding or dropping the clutch repeatedly), you dont have enough grunt to damage the clutch or gearbox and usually a propshaft thats had a knock will let go first.



I agree with the strength of the LT230.

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Originally Posted by isuzurover

The idea that strengthening one component will mean you break something back up the drivelive is a fallacy.

Btw - the LT230 t-case is the strongest component in most landrovers.

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Far from it.. Its a given! By replacing shafts and all but eliminating the possibility of breaking them moves the issue to the Rover diff.. By fitting a solid case locker (like most are) and lessening the back lash on the R&P or fitting a Salisbury moves the issue to the props and gearbox.. It can't do anything but move the weak link as you are eliminating the others. My weak link on the 101 is my props, and that will be rectified when funds allow.

Agreed with the LT230.. I've also modified that with one piece cross in the CDL, thick wall tube instead of crush tube on the center shaft and a strength/anti spread plate between the increased capacity sump and the casing... I'm using a truck box that was designed to go behind the Cummins.. and if that turbo is not singing, Im not happy. So far (5000kms now) its all taking the abuse it will be getting from 200+ hp and 500+ nm of torque. :D

While I have experience of tru-tracs, I had a Detroit/Eaton in the rear of my 110. My opinion seems to be a bit different from others here.

While the traction improvement was great, the downsides for me mean that I wouldnt go this way again. The downsides were:
-greatly increased driveline backlash which tended to impact negatively on the driving experience
-because it cannot be manually unlocked, there are situations off-road where it would regularly get me into trouble:
-slippery side slopes - the rear of the vehicle will tend to 'walk' sideways which in a tight situation can be dangerous
-steep, loose downhills (low first type hills) - the rear has a disconcerting tendency to 'come around', the cure is a quick dab on the throttle, but this can be hairy at times.

I will only fit a manually lockable rear diff from now on, or possibly a decent LSD, but these options are scarce for a Salisbury....

A tru-trac in the front sounds interesting. Looking at the video,it may even reduce front diff backlash - the rover centre is pretty sloppy at the best of times.

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Originally Posted by mark2

While I have experience of tru-tracs, I had a Detroit/Eaton in the rear of my 110. My opinion seems to be a bit different from others here.

While the traction improvement was great, the downsides for me mean that I wouldnt go this way again. The downsides were:
-greatly increased driveline backlash which tended to impact negatively on the driving experience
-because it cannot be manually unlocked, there are situations off-road where it would regularly get me into trouble:
-slippery side slopes - the rear of the vehicle will tend to 'walk' sideways which in a tight situation can be dangerous
-steep, loose downhills (low first type hills) - the rear has a disconcerting tendency to 'come around', the cure is a quick dab on the throttle, but this can be hairy at times.

I will only fit a manually lockable rear diff from now on, or possibly a decent LSD, but these options are scarce for a Salisbury....

A tru-trac in the front sounds interesting. Looking at the video,it may even reduce front diff backlash - the rover centre is pretty sloppy at the best of times.

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Interesting.... would this backlash be the same for an Constant AWD Auto like the Disco's, etc ??

I would have to agree with u that it greatly increases the backlash as this is what I experienced in my Zook, but that is not a constant AWD (I have FWH on the Front of the Zook) like the Disco's, so it makes me wonder if it would be a different experience with a constant 4WD Disco Auto's ??

I dont have any of that backlash other than the very rear/ocasional clunk when the detroit locks back in, but mine is the modern SL model and not the older noisier one, also my 110 is an auto.
As said befor the trutrac in the front and detroit in the back is great.
Easy fit, i scribed the front crownwheel to the housing so it was reinstalled in the same location and that was probably 80,000ks ago, detroit is even easier to fit in a salisbury

I have a D2, so ABS & TC with Ashcroft ATB in the rear. There is less backlash in the setup of the centre compared to a std centre according to Craft who assembled the center. Conversely though it doesn't feel as "tight" when turning over by hand. There is no clunking of backlash and at rest there is less movement in the driveline by comparison. The ATB really is seamless in operation with the TC as you don't need to think about left foot braking to make it work. Personally I also think that the ATB has less detrimental effects on the driveline as the operation is not on/off it's quite progressive.