Thread: R380 Clutch change the easy way

Hi all,Just a helpful hint in changing the clutch on a 300tdi Discovery which I attended to this long weekend.
If you don't have any other reason to remove the gearbox don't pull it out completely.
All I did was remove the gear levers, slave cylinder,exhaust pipe from engine to first muffler, unplugged all the wiring attached to the box/transfer.
Also it would be a good idea to completely remove the bracket holding the front of the muffler.
Unbolt the bellhousing from the engine as per usual and support the front of the engine.
Put a trolly jack under the gearbox crossmember to support it. Remove all the bolts from the x-member to the chassis.
Then simply get a crowbar and prise the gearbox back and away from the engine. Taking care not to let the x-member slip off the trolley jack. Keep sliding the complete unit back far enough so you can get the thrust bearing, fork and the rest of the pressure plate and/or disc removed.
Obviously you need to remove both front and rear prop shafts.
The biggest advantage to this is that you can probably do it with only one person under the car. The crossmember keeps everything in line and stops the transfer/gearbox from rolling to one side. I have also found that the x-member is the centre of gravity and keep it level forward and backward, but it would help if you had another trolly jack on the back of the transfer for stability and for later lining up the input shaft into the flywheel.
I forgot to mention that the drum brake on the back needs to be removed as well to give sufficient room between the body and the transfer.
Unfortunately no photos, but if you can picture everything just sliding backwards enough to get between the engine and box, it saves a hell of a lot of time and sore knuckles,cuts, swearing.
Cheers
Luke


Not sure if the chassis rails on the Defender are the same so the technique might work for them as well.


Ps: didn't bother to try and search if this has been written before, as i'm still sore from having,my hands in the air for the last two days.

Old thread I know but it helped me so some feedback is in order

Post 1 is completely correct and I did the whole lot on my own - at nearly 60 - so anyone can do it

A car scissor jack proved invaluable for lifting/supporting the box and was easy to use
Only other jack I used was under the block in front to prevent the motor from tilting forwards

To undo the bolts securing the engine to the g/box was a mother of a job and I would recommend only using the six sided sockets to get a decent grip

I only slid the box back enough to get my hands in to replace the clutch release fork not the clutch

Enjoy