Thread: D2 calipers to D1

Originally Posted by dullbird

What do you mean trust me???

I'm not arguing with you! I know that D1, RRC and defender are interchangeable

I'm just telling you the part number given to me was just stated for Defender and RRC they didn't say D1 on it that's all.

Every listing I've seen was the same part number for disco 1, rrc and defender solid, same again for vented.

Hey I was just pointing out what was queried a few posts earlier. If someone wants to find the calculations there's heaps of stuff online. But (and I hate going here but seen it happen on more than one brake mod) master cyl undersized for volumetric requirements of system, accident, accident investigation pull the car apart (and they will) and suddenly no insurance and half a dozen extra charges.



But what do I know, just used to design hydraulic systems and reference engineer brake systems for mods.

I'll have my head back now thanks and **** back off to my corner.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

Hey I was just pointing out what was queried a few posts earlier. If someone wants to find the calculations there's heaps of stuff online. But (and I hate going here but seen it happen on more than one brake mod) master cyl undersized for volumetric requirements of system, accident, accident investigation pull the car apart (and they will) and suddenly no insurance and half a dozen extra charges.

Uninformed, completely wrong, scaremongering.

You don't find calculations online. You do them with a friggen pen, paper and calculator.

Originally Posted by clubagreenie

But what do I know, just used to design hydraulic systems and reference engineer brake systems for mods.

I would expect much, much more understanding from anyone who claims to design brake systems.

Originally Posted by Dougal

Every listing I've seen was the same part number for disco 1, rrc and defender solid, same again for vented.

AND????


what exactly is the point your trying to prove here with me...


The part number was given to me in a PM it stated as I think I have said twice in this thread already Defender and RRC it was probably for D1 too, I said I didn't know because they never stated that in the PM and I never looked it up...

So Dougal rather sitting here trying to prove a point that doesnt need to even be proven, as I never disagreed with you in the first place, how about we just move on hey..

Originally Posted by dullbird

AND????


what exactly is the point your trying to prove here with me...

You keep posting as if you're not sure they are the same. But they are exactly the same part across all three fitments
It's useful information for people hunting down rotors for this conversion.

Originally Posted by dullbird

The part number was given to me in a PM it stated as I think I have said twice in this thread already Defender and RRC it was probably for D1 too, I said I didn't know because they never stated that in the PM and I never looked it up...

So Dougal rather sitting here trying to prove a point that doesnt need to be even proven as I never disagreed with you in the first place how about we just move on hey...

??? Why the drama?

I never looked up that specific part number to confirm that it said D1 on there as well...I'm sure it does! but I never looked it up so there for I'm not going to write it,simple really

I don't really know how I can explain it any other way

so if you want to keep going on about it thats Ok but just please stop quoting me....because it just comes across like your trying to prove a point and as I said before I'm not arguing with the information you have given. Was only explaining what was in my PM

thats why im getting frustrated.

So again lets move on...

So to recap.

The calipers you need have 46mm pistons instead of the stock 41.3mm.
The master cylinder remains the same.
Some calipers have metric sized bolt holes, some are imperial. A drill sorts any problems out.
You will need to replumb from dual line fronts (if you have them) to single line. Most MC's can be converted. You replumb so the circuit split is front/rear (like all other vehicles).
The decision to remove or retain the rear brake pressure reducing valve is made depending on how your brake bias suits the loading of your vehicle. My vehicle works better with it removed.
The total extra stroke on the pedal is 16%. A completely insignificant amount.

Hmmm...

Mr literal. You won't find calculations online but you will find information and even online calculators plus how to do it on paper.

Maybe you walk around with every calculation in your head ready to prove everyone wrong at every opportunity but while I know what formulas are I'll always reference something to make sure. Added to which there are many people on here for whom such a conversion is mechanically simple but it's easy for someone to assume that because it works it's correct.

As for scare mongering, been in the sharp end of the stick and only my knowledge, experience and qualifications saved me from 10+ years after an accident that I could prove was someone else's fault because of exactly what I mentioned.

So you can sit safely in your pit of knowledge. I'd rather over inform someone and make them aware of the potential issues than have something happen and know that they should have done something different.

Lou, I now understand your frustration.