Charging Voltage on a '96 Disco Tdi ?

**Robmacca** · 22nd August 2014, 10:05 PM

Guys.....

The charging voltage on my Disco is saying 13.7volts. With modern batteries, especially Calcuim based Batteries, I don't believe it's higher enough. The Car has 311,000kms on the Clock and I'm the new owner, so I don't know too much about the history of it.

Is there anything that can be done to UP the charging voltage to >14volts ??

I believe the ALT in the Disco TDi's are 100amps..... is this correct?

any advise would be greatly appreciated

Rob

**Dizza** · 23rd August 2014, 12:31 AM

13.7 isn't too bad.
Mine puts out about that and i don't have any issues.

It might be worth stripping it down and giving the whole thing a good clean out.
I know some alternators can be rebuilt with fresh bearings etc.
Could always just throw in a new one?

And yes, 100amps

**Robmacca** · 23rd August 2014, 12:50 AM

Originally Posted by Dizza

13.7 isn't too bad.
Mine puts out about that and i don't have any issues.

It might be worth stripping it down and giving the whole thing a good clean out.
I know some alternators can be rebuilt with fresh bearings etc.
Could always just throw in a new one?

And yes, 100amps

cheers for that.....

I'd prefer higher charging voltage if I could get, not sure if rebuilding would achieve it though but something to look into.... If u want to get good life from the new modern Calcium type Wet Cell batteries (most starting batteries these days are calcium based, excl your AGMs, Gel's,etc), u need higher volts.

**Dizza** · 23rd August 2014, 12:52 AM

Im running an Optima Yellowtop deep cycle, that may be why i am not noticing anything.

**Robmacca** · 23rd August 2014, 01:06 AM

I've got them in our Prado as well. If u ring the manufacturer, they will tell u that they also need 14+ volts for optimum performance/life. It may not matter as much in older cars, I'm not really sure, but for the $$ u pay for them, I'd like to follow the manufacturer's specs.....

**drivesafe** · 23rd August 2014, 07:10 AM

Hi Rob and I would have expected a higher voltage from a 1996, at least 14v but I have seen them in the mid 14v.

Is this the original alternator?

**Landie333** · 23rd August 2014, 07:59 AM

Alternator may be fine. Check to a voltage drop across the earth for the alternator and across the power cable to the battery. That might be where you're loosing your .3 - .8v

**Robmacca** · 23rd August 2014, 09:26 AM

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Rob and I would have expected a higher voltage from a 1996, at least 14v but I have seen them in the mid 14v.

Is this the original alternator?

Hey Drive safe...... Unfortunately I don't know as I only recently purchased the car....

I'll do a few voltage drop checks at a few places to see if I can find anything. I would have thought if it was a bad earth that I would see the volts drop away with the increase in load ? I don't believe that is the case but will check to confirm....

**drivesafe** · 23rd August 2014, 10:02 AM

Hi Rob and Landie333’s suggestion is a good place to start, before looking at the alternator as the possible problem.

Land Rovers are renowned for bad earth connections, so try all the connections and see if they are in good nick and fixed properly.

**Spel1** · 24th August 2014, 05:04 PM

I had this problem recently, only high 13s in voltage - after getting used to seeing 14.1 for a long time, and starting became very slow. Checked every single earth wire, and positive wire that ran back from the alternator. (Already have a negative cable to the engine from battery, as well as the stock to chassis, and replaced the earth strap from starter to chassis). Managed to up the voltage by a whole 0.1V, so not good. Was dropping to mid to low 13's under load - lights and wipers on. Was time for a new alternator, got an OEM one. Now replaced and puts out 14.2 while driving, 14.0-1 idling. Meanwhile, the lousy volts helped to kill the 4 year old battery (this and inverter use, need it to charge power tool batteries). So now with an Optima Bluetop and new alternator all is well.

Just a note, the new alternator has a different bolt pattern for holding it all together, and are now M5's instead of M6's - making it difficult to set up the heat sheild. Tried to adapt the old one but wasn't optimal - ended up making a new heat sheild that brackets off the top mount bolt. I know some don't bother, but the thought of the 600º+ of the manifold that near the wire - did not want to make them crispy.

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