Thread: Disabling ABS while 4wdriving in a 96 Discovery TDI?

If you unplug the harness this will achieve your desired result. It will however log a fault which will require a pain in the arse procedure to clear.

Originally Posted by Robmacca

Went out in my Disco for the 1st time 4wdriving and I found the ABS activating a fair bit and to the point that it was becoming a PITA.

Errr, are you sure you don't mean traction control?

If the ABS is engaging, then you are doing it wrong - not sure how you are managing to lock up the wheels to trigger ABS.

If TC is engaging, then that should help you. If it isn't, then you need to learn how to drive within its capabilities.

I've had TC on a Disco and now a Puma and it's never been a hindrance. You just need to learn how to use it

Originally Posted by Naks

Errr, are you sure you don't mean traction control?

If the ABS is engaging, then you are doing it wrong - not sure how you are managing to lock up the wheels to trigger ABS.

If TC is engaging, then that should help you. If it isn't, then you need to learn how to drive within its capabilities.

I've had TC on a Disco and now a Puma and it's never been a hindrance. You just need to learn how to use it

Mate, this is a 96 Disco(Auto), they never to my knowledge came with traction control.... and Yes I do mean ABS. On loose downhill dirt surfaces (ie Steep loose Declines) the wheels are always going to slip to some degree when going over the washout humps, etc. It's this slipping that is a PITA as the brakes release for an instant. This is what is annoying as there is no need for it to activate as I'm still in full control. IT seems way too sensitive.....
I've got another 4wd with all the TC,ABS,DHA, etc and never behaves like this.....
All I was thinking about was wanting to install a switch (into maybe the power wire that wont cause a fault code - if possible) that I could switch while 4wdriving and then switch back on when I'm back on normal surfaces....

Originally Posted by d2dave

If you unplug the harness this will achieve your desired result. It will however log a fault which will require a pain in the arse procedure to clear.

Thanks Dave....

What about tapping into the Power Wire to the module under the bonnet? Is this possible & would it work?


How bad is the resetting procedure and is the fault code present by the ABS dash light not going out on the dash?

Rob

I don't think Naks has driven a D1 off road to experience this. It has been talked on here many times before. I have gone straight though intersetions before in the bush with the foot pressed hard on the brakes and the car keeps going. You have to be careful if you do a permanent mod as it will void insurance. I put a blown fuse in to disable the abs and never had a problem stopping since.

I'm with Robmacca...the ABS is a pain - the number of times I've started to drive it home from work and in the first 30 metres it decides to deny you braking power, then goes pop bang under the bonnet to reset itself. Disconnected the fuse. Read in UK LRover mag that it is not an issue with authorities there to disconnect it if no longer working as it is not the primary braking system, but an add on - different issue to where some RRC had the ABS as primary. Once disconnected it is out of the picture. There have been other net examples where people have gone to pull up at red lights and find themselves sailing through because the brakes have disappeared then to come back on after the event.

Made by the same mob that make the poxy vacuum pump I believe.

Thanks guys.... this is what I want to hear.....This Fuse, is it located under the bonnet on the RHS or in the cab below the steering wheel so to speak... I assume nothing else is paralleled up to this Fuse ??

Rob

Originally Posted by Landover

I don't think Naks has driven a D1 off road to experience this. It has been talked on here many times before. I have gone straight though intersetions before in the bush with the foot pressed hard on the brakes and the car keeps going. You have to be careful if you do a permanent mod as it will void insurance. I put a blown fuse in to disable the abs and never had a problem stopping since.

Originally Posted by workingonit

I'm with Robmacca...the ABS is a pain - the number of times I've started to drive it home from work and in the first 30 metres it decides to deny you braking power, then goes pop bang under the bonnet to reset itself. Disconnected the fuse. Read in UK LRover mag that it is not an issue with authorities there to disconnect it if no longer working as it is not the primary braking system, but an add on - different issue to where some RRC had the ABS as primary. Once disconnected it is out of the picture. There have been other net examples where people have gone to pull up at red lights and find themselves sailing through because the brakes have disappeared then to come back on after the event.

Made by the same mob that make the poxy vacuum pump I believe.

Can't remember off the top of my head - under the bonnet I think - the cover should detail each fuse.

Not sure about the insurance issue - assume it will be similar to this example. I once had to investigate for work purposes the implications for overloading vehicles beyond GVM - late model toyotas start to quickly run out of carrying capacity once a few after market items are added (bull bar, spare wheel carrier, winch, long range tank). Seems to boil down to whether or not the issue significantly contributed to the accident at the time.

ABS seems to be demonstrated on airstrips or frozen lakes. Non-ABS vehicles crash into cones. ABS vehicles loll through the course in wide sweeps showing how cones can't be killed in wide open spaces. ABS takes longer to stop. There aren't many kids level crossings on airstrips and ice lakes. Try wide sweeping moves on your narrow school road with mums and toddlers on the footpaths and oncoming traffic. Maybe fine for country gravel roads and the like to avoid kangaroos etc.

Yes, have it compulsory on all new vehicles, but also have it compulsory for all manufactures to offer a lifetime warranty or at least for 20 years or so. And not as the primary system, so that in the event of the manufactures lack of support/gone bust/taken over the consumer can disconnect legally and still have very good brakes.