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Are seal kits readily available for those turbo's?
If they are I would getting the turbo rebuilt and then check for oil in the hose.
Was the turbo rebuilt at the same time as the motor?
Sorry about the stuff up with that first part number I gave you, that wrong one was for a 300 TDi in a Range Rover.
I need to find out if I can get a addendum for my Parts Catalogue, Part No. STC9021CC.
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Serg - looks like 3 issues:
1. Fuelling is too low (turn it up)
2. Leaks from turbo - Check all bolts are tight. Apart from that as Dave said it will seal up with soot if you do 1.
3. Blowby - fit a provent (pm me).
yep...Sometimes the gauzey/filter bit in those crank case ventilators collapses and they just let the oil straight out.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
short term test...
disconnect the line that runs from that thing to the air intake, stick it into a large mouth 2l bottle and stuff a large sponge around the hose filling the mouth of the bottle.
Start and run the engine, If it doesnt try to blow the bottle apart and doesnt vent oil immediatly take it for a short drive and get the thing loaded up. If it still hasnt vented oil out of the 2l bottle
Clean your turbo-intercooler hose again (just wipe it out) and keep it that way for about 1000K and see how it goes.
if the quantitiy of blow by isnt excessive (it blows the 2l bottle apart, or fills it) then you might want to replace the ventilator OR put in a provent.
thanks WrinkleAurther,
The turbo was taken to Mike Vine in Brisbane, a recommended specialist that has been doing turbos since the 70's. I told him the whole story, including the actuator rod failure pre killing the engine. I asked him to go right over it and make sure all ok. On pick up he said they had gone into it as far as needed and that all was ok. cleaned and reassembled. His main concern was that the engine block head etc all be CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN as the machine particles dont get trapped by the oil filter and abraid the main shaft of the turbo...the it becomes an expensive paper weight. This is one reason I ran a synthectic media oil filter for the first 5000km
I would like to eventually fit a provent for sure. But what causes blow by and what is considered normal?
Ben when you say fuel is too low, what part are you referring to, just the down on power bit?
well atleast Im learing some stuff :angel:
on a TDI Id wind the boost compensator spring all the way off and set the the eccentric to the quickest acting setting so that it would fuel up plenty off boost and blow plenty of black smoke (without over fuelling once the turbo was up on boost)
I'd have to go and have a sit down to work out how to get a VNT to do it safely on a fresh rebuild engine.
as for the blowby thing...
Id be very upset with more than 5% of the engine capacity per revolution of the crank on a warmed up old worn engine (fozzy, warm and idling, is currently blowing 3% calculated as a gas flow out of the crankcase vent/The gas flow through the air intake)
ref; BLOWBY
What is Blow-by?
Blow-by occurs when the explosion that occurs in your engine's combustion chamber causes fuel, air and moisture to be forced past the rings into the crankcase. Your engine's rings must maintain an excellent fit in order to contain the pressure.
What procedure and /or equipment do you use to measure the gas flow?Quote:
Originally Posted by Blknight.aus
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I suspect the MAIN reason you are down on power is conservative fuelling (underfuelling).Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
The extra soot from higher fuelling rates would have stopped the leaks you have found.
Since you spent $$$ with Mike Vine though, if you have the time you could take it back to him...
Blowby is combustion gases which make it past the rings into the crankcase, which then entrain oil by one of 3 mechanisms. All engines (and especially all TDs) have blowby to some extent. New engines have more until the rings bed in.
For that test, a pair of tubed anemometers. big one in a bit of 4 inch pipe for the intake and a small one in a bit of inch pipe for the crankcase vent. A rev counting tacho on the crank.Quote:
Originally Posted by wrinklearthur
procedure was
run and warm up, shut down connect all 3 devices
start and run engine until the anemometers had stabalised their readings, reset tacho and time out one minute. read off the averages for the minute from the meters, and multiply out the velocity V time thing to get a distance, mulitply out distance x area to get a volume then put the smaller one over the larger one to get a percentage.