Have you turned it one complete revolution with the spanner?
no drain/wading plugs fitted. Would there be anything due to the masive engine reving that would cause problem for the battery/starter.
gauges are very responsive as are warning lights etc when ignition is turned on.
I think Battery is fine. When I tried to turn it over it turned a tiny bit then clicked. I turned it off, got back under and turned the crank by wrench to make sure it could turn and yes it can. I am only turning the crank clockwise from viewed standing at the front of the car looking towards the rear. same result each time. The amount it turns before clicking is minimal.
still socket hunting......
Have you turned it one complete revolution with the spanner?
At the risk of making a totally uninformed statement I would say not.
In defining 'massive engine revving', how big is massive ?, if something broke at these revs I would expect to hear loud expensive graunching noises. If this isn't the case your engine could be OK.
Sounds like a flat battery to me. Your dash lights and gauges will show up OK with a flat battery as the starter needs MUCH more power to operate than the gauges.
Did you have your hazard lights on for a period of time following engine armageddon ? and is this the cause of a flat battery.
If you're really lucky all you need is an engine/manifold/hose/MAF cleanout a battery re-charge and away you go, poorer but wiser.
Deano![]()
Hazards were on for 3hrs. I would have thought with dual batteries this not to bad. But definit food for thought.
No big bangs, but very high hard revs when I clutched and neutral gear. I new that would happen, but in the situation. I didn't have much choice. It was safety first. Big plume of smoke, grey white.
I will try and do 1 complete revolution with spanner. I think I already have but will check.
Socket still MIA
Confirm over 1 full revolution of crank by hand/wrench. Can feel it get harder at compression.
Sounds like battery or starter failure.
If it was running on its own oil - you killing the key/ignition and turbo timer would not have stopped it, not unless you have something more clever than just a fuel solenoid. Both the key and turbo timer will power the fuel solenoid and when running on oil it does not matter what you do with the diesel supply.
Running on your own oil usually ends in a loud noise somewhere.
why didnt you just brake it to a halt?
putting it in neutral is about the worst thing you could have done in that situation as it let the engine free rev.
your turbo bearings probably seals will not be happy at you, I would be doing your next start (IF it will start) without the exhaut pipe or the turbo to intercooler hose fitted to check the output of the turbo.
If the rocker cover gasket has developed a leak (or does so in the near future) Id also be suspect of the valve stem seals
Given that you think it may have shut down when you killed it with the timer I would also check the fueling lever for freedom of movement, You may just be very lucky and have achieved the following
a stuck throttle that has allowed the engine to overboost from an incorrectly adjusted turbo, This will have caused excessive blowby forcing the oil up past the breathers filter into the air intake. The intercooler has not completely filled and the nature if its design has trapped most of the oil and allowed just enough oil past to contaminate the combustion process but not sustain it, removing the diesel supply has stopped combustion and allowed the engine to spool down.
as a cautionary Id be scoping the timing belt, the block/timing belt crank seal and the rear output seal for leaks and dropping the sump to check the bottom end out by eye and to find if it produced any metal. At the same time I'd also scope the bores through the injector or glow plug holes. Dissect the oil filter thats on it to inspect that.
The over heat of your cooling system is normal from a hot shutdown (which it would have been) as the latent heat in the block was applied to the now stationary coolant with no air cooling coming through the radiator. IF it was still holding pressure, there was no signs of water in the exhaust and subsequent cranking of the engine with the injectors and plugs in did not cause pressurization of the cooling system I would suspect that you have not done the head gasket at this point. The possibility of cracks around the valve seats, injector and glow plug ports would still exist but in reality you would not find them without a pull down or untill they let go at some in-determined time in the future.
I'd also probably fit up a turbo timer thats got an on/off switch, something like this one.
Admit it, Even you knew that was coming.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I just saw this posted on another thread a few minutes ago. This one got right out of hand:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zx3qKX_Pno&feature=player_detailpage]Runaway Diesel Defender 200 TDI - YouTube[/ame]
havent been for quite some time, but if it was fitted before they were legislated out then you may keep it.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
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