Thread: After market central door locking

Originally Posted by p38arover

Robert, buy the 4-door kit and you can add the rear door later if you want - and you will probably want to.

Ron. Robert's Disco is only a three door so why would he need to add one later?

I am going to buy the kit that Ron linked but I will wait before I install it untill I sort out my other thoughts on putting in electric window mechanism.
Better to do the two at the same time.

Hi Robert, if your 93 Disco doors are the same as my 94 doors then the Jaycar units will do fine. You can buy the controller unit or master for the driver door separately. You can also buy the slave units separately. Not aware of any ability to wire up as an immobiliser.

And beware, one thing leads to another. Once the card and dust membrane are off the door you get to see if your scissor rollers are good/breaking/broken. Ditto with the latch springs.

Originally Posted by workingonit

Hi Robert, if your 93 Disco doors are the same as my 94 doors then the Jaycar units will do fine. You can buy the controller unit or master for the driver door separately. You can also buy the slave units separately. Not aware of any ability to wire up as an immobiliser.

And beware, one thing leads to another. Once the card and dust membrane are off the door you get to see if your scissor rollers are good/breaking/broken. Ditto with the latch springs.

Thanks Mate.
I would overhaul the lock and window mechanisms as a precaution anyway.
Thinking about getting new standard lock thingy's before fitting Jayco kit also. The rear door lock has given a bit of trouble in the past and I have been meaning to replace it.
I am working on an idea to use a fob device to isolate the fuel pump but anyway if I have to rarely leave it in an exposed location I remove the rotor button.

Me poor old Disco has been abit neglected lately as I have been wrestling with The Bitch.

Come on Robert, you just can't take the public commons name for all Land Rovers and assume you have sole right to apply it just to your own vehicle Although I've always been partial to "the anti-Christ" (Gods must be crazy).

Do you beat it with a sapling you've uprooted from the side walk (Faulty Towers)?

Originally Posted by workingonit

Come on Robert, you just can't take the public commons name for all Land Rovers and assume you have sole right to apply it just to your own vehicle Although I've always been partial to "the anti-Christ" (Gods must be crazy).

Do you beat it with a sapling you've uprooted from the side walk (Faulty Towers)?

Crikey no and when I am in her presence I only whisper it under my breath as I fear the retribution and having myself beat up.
I also dont let her anywhere near this Forum as I know she can read and write because she is often sending me fault messages in perfect english.
The Bitch.
Shhh.

PS: the anti-christ was a lovable creature by comparison.

A further note to this.

I finally got around to fitting a keyless entry control in my D1. The locks were getting well worn and was looking to give them a bit more longevity. As I already have central locking, I got this one:
Remote Controlled Car Central Locking System with 2 Keyfob - Jaycar Electronics
I thought I could just break into the existing circuits and it would be easy. This is mostly true - however, as the original drivers door has its own micro controller circuit, activated by the key or manually by the inside knobs, and it has only got 4 wires - It cannot be controlled by the new remote activated controller.

The only way I could make this work was to replace the driver's door controller with one of the Jaycar ones, the master actuator Master Door Lock Actuator - Jaycar Electronics . I ran the new supplied wires right to the unit, its only a short distance so fairly easy. From there, I found the plug running to the door (under the right kick panel), which has the two control wires to the other doors (orange and pink) and the fused power wire for the door locks (brown and pink). I connected the red power wire for the controller to the brown and pink wire, and connected the green and blue wires from the controller and new driver's door unit to the orange and pink wires running to the other doors (orange=blue). The black earth wire I connected to a solid earth post inside the kick panel. The new controller powers all the other units with no problem through the existing wiring. I mounted the controller in a space by the steering column. There is a bunch of blue/green wire to power the other doors which I cut off as not needed.

A couple of issues to note.
The new actuator is not a clean fit in the door, had to relieve a bit of the door skin to make it fit nicely, and re drill with new positions on the mount plate. A bit of messing around but not difficult.
The acutating circuit, when controlled by the supplied remote, is the opposite way around to what is indicated on the remote. (Lock=Open and vice versa) This is because the lever action in the D1 door reverses the open and closed position of the actuator. I tried flipping the blue and green wires from the controller, this works sort of but the controller is not happy with it and its not a clean lock/unlock.

The new master actuator still controls the other door lock with the use of the key and the interior knob.

Bottom line is, the system works very nicely, only with the opposite remote buttons. To fix this I just bought two cloning generic cloning remotes on ebay for $10 with just A and B buttons which I will use. AU 2X Universal Cloning KEY FOB Remote Control FOR Garage Door Electric Gate CAR | eBay. Didn't have to do this but it would just keep annoying me using the wrong buttons. Maybe someone with tech knowledge could re-program the remotes?

If I was to start again, I'd get the kit from Jaycar with the actuators for $80 - I bought the kit with no actuators for $50, then had to get the master actuator for $15, so cost me $65. The full kit would have left me with three spare slave actuators for the other doors, which alone are $13 each. Also, the $80 kit has a few other features such as a flasher signal for the indicators which might have been nice but not essential.

So, all up it still only cost me $75 including the two new remotes. And now I have keyless entry - my locks will last a bit longer.