Thread: Cooling system clean out

Mick, the acid in the vinegar might shift some corrosion, but I would be concerned about some of the loose debris blocking radiator tubes.

IMHO the only way to clean an older type (brass tank radiator) cooling system properly is to flush the system with the radiator out and to have the radiator "rodded" with one tank (end) removed. Total cost should be under $150.

The modern alternative to the above for the now common plastic and aluminium radiators is to replace the radiator (they cost around $200-$300).

A quick result for an older system would be to replace the old radiator with one of the plastic/alloy ones. I am aware that some people have done this in 110s.

Removing the radiator and rodding cleans only the radiator.
How would you clean the block?

I'm talking the whole cooling system, not just one component.

For my immediate application, the radiator hose on the Perentie has sprung a leak. While I am changing this hose, I might as well change the coolant. If I'm changing the coolant, I might as well give the system a bit of a clean.

as in post #2

Originally Posted by 87County

...

IMHO the only way to clean an older type (brass tank radiator) cooling system properly is to flush the system with the radiator out and to have the radiator "rodded" with one tank (end) removed.
.... etc

Since you're doing a Perentie, you probably are aware that the thermostat requires a special "O" ring when you reassemble it - part nos. for these are in the sticky at the top of the Isuzu section. If it was me I'd do the whole lot, then you know it's right for years.

Mick,

Have a look at this system. www.evapo-rust.com.au
It works very well.
Sorry i couldn't get the hyper link to work.
Regards,
Phil.

Originally Posted by Phil B

Mick,

Have a look at this system. www.evapo-rust.com.au
It works very well.
Sorry i couldn't get the hyper link to work.
Regards,
Phil.

Yep, that link was stuffed. Fixed now.
Thanks

When I repaired the radiator on my RRC which ended up being re-cored, I was advised to flush the block with a running hose & compressed air through the top hose until the water running out was clear. It took about 10 minutes & seems to have done the trick. I am going to do the same on the 107" which needs the original radiator fitted & front panel rebuilt to suit!

Just reading up on the subject.
Vinegar and copper radiators is not a good idea.
The acid leaches the lead content out of the soldered joints. (so says google).


I've got a bare block I'm working on, going to fill the water jackets with vinegar today and see what happens.

FYI-
This is just a bare block 300 tdi I filled with a mix of 50/50 cleaning vinegar and water.
Dropped the mix out after 28 Hrs.
The mix came out as clean as it went in.
Knocked the core plugs out.
There is still signs of rust, distinct tidal type marks but very little rust scale and no calcium build up at all.
I've filled the block again as best as I could with %100 vinegar and will see if it cleans the rust up.


110 Hrs later a rusty froth had formed so I drained it out and gave it a pressure clean.


Came up fairly clean. There seemed to be about a tablespoons worth of rusty grit that has been released.