OldBushie
there is a rough and ready way to do/undo these nuts up.
to tension the first nut use multi grips...they dont need to be done up tight.
to do the lock nut a hammer and screw driver (or chisel) can be used to tighten them or remove them.
this is the method that will probably be used in the bush as well.
it was even used in the workshop by several dealerships as tool always go missing and no one ever has a socket that big when you need it.
it will not weaken the nut and it will not be seen anyway.
if you look at the hub nuts of quite a few landys running around out there you will find some with a chisel mark on one corner of the nut from this method.
and yes i am greekops:
but all the other mechanics using this werent.
I'm guilty of cold chisel and hammer method, as mine aren't done up tight and only need the lock tab lifted before the nut is rapped lightly and the nuts spin off with the fingers.
Doing up, makes that solid sound when the bearings become firm in the shells which has been tight enough for me. Tighten too much and all you do is wear the bearings out faster and cause them to run hotter in the mean time.
Master
Agree.Originally posted by DEFENDERZOOK
there is a rough and ready way to do/undo these nuts up.
to tension the first nut use multi grips...they dont need to be done up tight.
to do the lock nut a hammer and screw driver (or chisel) can be used to tighten them or remove them.
I recently did the rear seals, and multi-grips is what I used.
They already had marks on the nuts, and the the lock washers looked like they had been bashed a few times, and they were bashed once more.
To do them again, I'd probably use multi-grips, but I'd replace the washers.
To check the endfoat for 0.1mm, I just gave it a bit of a shake and ensured there was just a "small" amount of movement [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]
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