Thread: TD5 parts - genuine or OEM?

There is a great article about buying Non Genuine parts here: Should I buy Genuine parts? - Land Rover Workshop


"Buy cheap buy twice" or "If it seals, turns, or is safety critical, use Genuine" they say, really depends what it is and how important it is, if you can't get at it and its critical then genuine is probably the only way to go!

for most of these parts I would try roverlord Mario has most of that stuff

Genuine for me. Then there are no problems and I think overwhelmingly the OE parts are pretty high quality even compared to aftermarket.

I think my only exception is brake rotors and pads and tailshafts.

Originally Posted by phibbzy

Could I please get some guidance on weather the following items can be replaced with OEM parts or if genuine is the go. This is for a 2003 TD5 Disco 2a:

• coolant hoses
• Engine mounts
• Fuel regulator (long hose)
• Rocker cover gasket
• Injector loom
• oil, fuel & air filters

Also while I've found tutorials & guides on the engine mounts and fuel regulator, I haven't found much with the hoses. Is it a particularly involved job to change the plethora of hoses in the Disco TD5?

My opinion.
Hoses. Non genuine can be just as good as genuine. Some brands like Gates are as good or better. Not a big issue as not likely to be a "show stopper" Always carry spares, whether a non gen or the removed hose if in good nick.

Fuel regulator. If changing the complete unit, genuine. If it is leaking from the diaphragm I believe a non genuine unit is ok. I would have used one my self except the only decent one I could find was OS and I could not wait.

Having said this, if I could not do it myself and had to pay a workshop, I would go for a complete genuine job.

Engine mounts. Mine need doing and my research tells me to go genuine only.

Rocker gasket. Can't help here only to say it is a five minute job, so would not hesitate to use what ever is cheapest.

Injector loom. No idea, but would be interested to hear others opinions as I currently have oil at my ECU.

Finally, filters. This is probably the most important dilemma. A crook hose you will see a leak. A crook FPR, again you will see a leak.

A crook filter will show up nothing, other than your engine instead of lasting 400,000 plus kays will die at 250,000 because of poor filtration.

After a lot of research and talking to people in the game I am happy to use
Mahle, Coopers(not to be confused with Cooper)Ryco.

A lot of people here reckon for the centrifugal filter to go genuine. I sourced some genuine from OS at $15 each delivered but I had to buy 12.

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