Thread: driveshaft touching cross member

thanks everyone,
yeah i didnt even think the conversion could be the problem,
but looks like it. I have the castlemain rod shop conversion [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/sad.gif[/img]
so far i have five options
1/ pack up the gearbox mounts 2" - not enough
2/ cut the bastard x-member. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/tongue.gif[/img] looking good
3/ remove the army extended shackles to lower the body
4/ get my hand off it and realise i own a series landie :!:
5/ fit a high pinion diff [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Andrew wrote -
That is usually the problem on the front X member.That is best fixed by cutting out a section and welding in a section of 6 inch pipe.

thanks andrew but i think i have the same problem as phoenix
-a badly designed conversion kit causing the motor g/box assembly to tilt up.
i have a huge amount of front cross-member clearance front and stuff all at the rear.

btw i am hoping to get around 18" of travel

stupid trucks

[/quote]

Hi Crossy/Phoenix
Mine is a 202,no problems with clearance.Also my "Toy" wich has a 302V8 and auto which I set up myself has no problem.They both have standard transfercase mounts,the "V8 Toy" also has the army hangers.
Andrew

Just cut and shut.
Cut the bottom sections out and weld in plates. Work out how far the shaft moves up, and brace the remains accordingly.

If your worried, cut the whole crossmember out and fit it with a different design.

Dave

G'day crossy [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
This is a Holden in an Ex-Army Series 3 :?: with a suspect engine mounting kit ? (1) are you using Holden Eng Mountings ? as the Rover ones could be too high (therefore lifting the front and lowering the Tailshaft, (2) have you got the correct G'Box mountings (if they are the wrong type the G'Box will be to low) the correct type are round,steel-rubber-steel , the part No from 4wheeldrives in Melbourne is GR3.
cheers

G'day Crossy, [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
here are the genuine parts mounting numbers;

NRC-2054(2off) Eng Front 2.25(4)and 2.6(6) PETROL MOTORS [Round]

NRC-2052(2off) Eng Front 2,25 (4) DIESEL MOTORS ONLY [Square]

ALSO USED AS THE G/BOX MOUNTING.


NRC-2053(2off) Rear mount(GEARBOX) ALL PETROL MOTORS[Round]
(smaller diameter)

that's the latest genuine part numbers I have.
cheers [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

Phoenix, now that you mention about your holden motor being out of alignment, I have a similar situation with my swb series 3 which has a honden donk in it. Standard Landy motor crank is pretty well dead centre of the hole for the pto in the front chassis cross member, where the hold is to the right and upward, thus pointing the rear of the gearbox down.
Remanufacturing engine mounts, it's another job I have been going to do when the drought is over and I get a few rainy days and have to stay in the shed.

Mick

A picture is worth a thousand words or in my case about 5000.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/landi...mas12004019.jpg

This is the engine mount adapter causing the problem.

is anyone else running a holden adapter that alows the motor to sit lower ?

Hi Crossy
I had a look at my Holden conversion,its very different,my engine mounts line up with the mounts on the block,but I must add,mine was a diesel originally.Looking at yours you probably could make up a couple of plates from 10mm steel,bolt them to your mounts then bolt to your block using another set of bolts thus lowering your motor.Make sure you have plenty of clearance for the diff housing,the best way to check is to jack the front up from under the passenger front spring until the driver's side wheel leaves the ground.It should be the breather on the axle that will come closest to the sump on full articulation,the actual diff should be OK as it is tucked away to the right.
GOODLUCK
Andrew