Thread: Wiring 12VDC to bypass accessories

I can't see any reason why not. I've done it several times.

Ron

I bought a Waeco and was trying to run it off the cigar lighter also attached to the accessory mode.

Apart from the inconvenience the wiring is pathetic.

I installed a dedicated supply using 6mm cable for both the earth and the active connected directly to the battery. I installed a spade type fuse on the active. The Waeco manual recommends the amperage for the fuse and the thickness for the cable which is dictated by length. I used a heavy duty socket for the plug and this works well.

The difference in fridge performance was dramatic. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

The issue is where to put the outlet and where to run the wires. The fuse should be located as close as possible to the battery.

A Disco 1 is a different beast to the Subie and the D3 but the principle should be the same apart from any computer complications.

Just do it.

It is essential in my view.

One_iota is spot on the money and it is a good wiring set up to be used in any make of vehicle.

Can I make a couple of suggestions.

6 mm cable is perfect if you just want to run a fridge and I wouldn’t go any bigger if thats the case.

But if you a planning on running power to a camper trailer or caravan in the future, why not run heavier cable now and save some time and effort later.

Use something like 10 mm square or 6 B&S ( thats about 13 mm square cable ). Using this size cable will allow you to fit a second battery and be able to charge it properly.

Try and leave some slack in the cable up the front for future alterations and fit a circuit breaker at the battery positive terminal.

Run both positive and negative cable from the battery along the engine bay and then inside the vehicle, along side the vehicle’s existing wire looms to the rear bumper and put an Anderson plug on the cable and fix the Anderson to the bumper.

While you are fixing the heavy cable to the Anderson plug’s terminals, use the terminal as a junction and fit some 6 mm twin cable at the same time and run this cable to where you want to fit the fridge power connection.

Some where along the 6 mm cable where you can get at it easily, fit an inline blade fuse holder and a 10 of 15 amp fuse. The size of the fuse should be about 50% greater than the maximum power requirements of the device it is protecting, this extra size will stop the fuse heating up.

Cheers

Thanks to everyone for your help.

I'll go the One_iota solution as I only plan to run a fridge. I've got most of the hardware already just need to pick up a spade fuse socket from the Jaycar or Tricky Dicky.

Thanks again

Chris