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Thread: Wing Top Checkerplate

  1. #1
    Defender200Tdi Guest

    Wing Top Checkerplate

    What has everyone used when installing? Just silicone between the wing top & the checkerplate, or some sort of rubber strip/mat instead or as well?


    Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

  2. #2
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    Hi Paul,

    I used double sided foam tape .. see below. Compared to silicone it is a lot easier .. and cleaner to work with.


  3. #3
    lewy110 Guest
    I just used silicon then sealed around the outside with some aircraft sealent goop I got from work.

  4. #4
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    If you use a silicon, make sure its a sikaflex type as to not induce rust.

    I have made mine but have been too lazy to put them on (along with the rest of the items in the gararge).

    When i do, they will be sikaflexed with rivets.

    Dave [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

  5. #5
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    Originally posted by DaveS3
    If you use a silicon, make sure its a sikaflex type as to not induce rust.

    I have made mine but have been too lazy to put them on (along with the rest of the items in the gararge).

    When i do, they will be sikaflexed with rivets.

    Dave


    the guards will not rust.
    what did you use as a pattern/template to make them

  6. #6
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    made up my own template by laying paper on the wing top and drawing the outline of the part i wanted to cover.
    i then cut this out and sprayed it with contact glue andrepeatedly alyered it until it was almost as stiff as cardboard. i then cut this out to the original paper template size and checked it against the guard.
    i temporarily glued this to my 4mm chequerplate and lightly sprayed it (on the back) with black paint. when the template was removed, the outline remained.
    i used a jigsaw to cut the shape out and made up a bending clamp to chamfer the sides and band the front lip down. (in retrospect, i probably could've gone for 3mm as the 4mm was a little hard to work with).
    once the shape was cool, i used automotive grade double sided tape (the kind they use for the badges and decals) with some silicone around the outside to stop crap getting in, and used nut-serts to fix it all down with some nice stainless steel counter sunk phillips head screws.
    LAND ROVER;
    HELPING PUT OIL BACK IN THE GROUND FOR 70 YEARS
    CARS DON'T GET ANY "GREENER" THAT.

  7. #7
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    Originally posted by DEFENDERZOOK+--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(DEFENDERZOOK)</div><div class='quotemain'><!--QuoteBegin-DaveS3
    If you use a silicon, make sure its a sikaflex type as to not induce rust.

    I have made mine but have been too lazy to put them on (along with the rest of the items in the gararge).

    When i do, they will be sikaflexed with rivets.

    Dave


    the guards will not rust.
    what did you use as a pattern/template to make them[/b][/quote]

    They do corrode eventually.

    I used paper then transfered it to cardboad for the templates. Mine contour the complete inside line of the guard.

    Dave.

  8. #8
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    so do mine.
    i didn't want any bare bits of dented aluminium to detract from the x-plate.
    LAND ROVER;
    HELPING PUT OIL BACK IN THE GROUND FOR 70 YEARS
    CARS DON'T GET ANY "GREENER" THAT.

  9. #9
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    is it possible to post a few close-up pics of the home made jobbies so i can see them...im interested in making some up myself as i cant afford to buy them at the moment.

    i need to see how straight a cut you get from a jigsaw or if there are any other methods of cutting the aluminium.

    also ideas on curving the front edge.


    the pricing of these is such a rip off..... a sheet of the chequer plate costs what they charge for a set of protectors...they get about 5 sets(pairs) from one sheet. do the maths...its scary.

    TIA

  10. #10
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    Sikaflex is also paintable, whereas panels that have had silicone on them (even a long time ago) apparently react with any future paint. I haven't seen this, but was told by the guy who sprayed by 109.

    I've used rivets, but zinc plated metal screw (the ones with the capped heads) can look good too. They make it easier to remove the chequer plate for any future repair and can be tighten if they get loose, whereas rivets can't.

    Next time 'round I think I'd use the scews.

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