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Thread: Body Lifts

  1. #11
    HSVRangie Guest
    Move the radiator so that the shroud stys central to the fan.

    THe shroudis critical to cooling performence.

    Its not hard to move.

    Just unbolt and lower mounts . even easier on 86 and up,
    PIA on earlier.

    Michael.

  2. #12
    landy_man Guest
    that is why I cut the shroud on my '84.... It is really difficult to lower the radiator on the earlier models... but later ones are easy due to the pins in the chassis which pre 86 dont have

  3. #13
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    Mmmm. I have a '77 so I assume it will be hard, I will work it out as I go.

    How about the "high/low" stick, do I have to modify this at all?

  4. #14
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    Originally posted by walker
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>I have understood is that a 245mm is okay
    WOW, now that's a big lift!! 8O 8O :wink:

    But I know what you mean. Here in Victoria we can get away with anything [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] . Will just go with a 50mm lift using aluminium rod. I looked at the Rangie spares kit but I can think of better things to do with my $650.[/b][/quote]

    Another one of my typical typos.

    It's the factor of the info to the typing situation, but a 245 mm body lift would be interesting.

    Trav

  5. #15
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    Regards to the radiator, I fitted my 3.9 (ex-Aquarangie) job and these mount diffrently than the older ones through the front wing panel not onto the body as Landy Man stated with the older ones.

    I had to chop the bottom mounts out to make it fit though.

    Trav

  6. #16
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    Ok, I started the body lift this afternoon. Went and bought all the materials. I have removed the bullbar & radiator. I have an old old model Rangie but I still think I might drop the radiator back to original position, not sure yet.

    I did encounter a couple of problems so far. I have only removed all the nuts from the bolts so far but found I could not remove the bolts in the far rear and the 2nd from front (Behind motor) mounts. In all cases the bolts hit something above them. I am hoping that there is a bush inside the rubber mounts and when I jack up the body that I will be able to remove the bush & get enough angle on the bolts to get them out.
    Is this right? And am I making sense? :?

    The clutch line also runs directly over one of the body mounts so I guess I have to disconnect the clutch line?? Has anyone had to put in an extended clutch fluid hose? It looks like it will be long enough but only just!

    I am going to keep on with this tomorrow arfternoon so any more tips you guys can give will be appreciated.

  7. #17
    landy_man Guest
    yep... the bolts you are talking about will come out once you lift the body...
    I would only be removing 1 bolt at a time, leaving the rest with the nut just screwed on... this way if the body shifts while jacking it, you will still be able to line up the holes... if you have no bolts in and the body shifts... It will be a HUGE PITA to line everything up again...
    Rangie Spares in their kit suggest the best way to do it is loosen all nuts till only a few threads holding nut on... starting at drivers side headlight lift body and place new mounts in.. then work your way down drivers side of vehicle, round the back and then back up passenger side... only removing one bolt at a time and replacing with lift blocks and new bolts...

    HTH :wink:

  8. #18
    HSVRangie Guest
    leave bolts in holes with nuts only just on or off.

    You will most likly need a clutch line.

    Have one 75mm longer if you need.

    just takes time.

    Michael.

  9. #19
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    Thankyou. That clutch line is a real pain. I was told about the brake hoses but no-one at AMV or anywhere said anything about the clutch hose. I will see how it goes. I guess the extended clutch line has to be custom made.

    Thanks for the offer Michael but Geelong is a bit far away.......although when I am desperate on Sunday night maybe. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

    I am trying to get it ready to take the big tyres for a trip on Monday.

  10. #20
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    Ok, next question.

    On the old Rangies the centre diff lock actuator is vacuum. Do I need to modify anything when I lift the body? I am assuming there is a hose running from the "knob" to the tranfercase is this correct?

    Has anyone lifted an old Pre '80 Rangie and what did you do with CDL?

    I will be lifting the car after lunch today so if anyone has any ifo it would be great to get it before then.

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