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Thread: R380 the saga continues...what is going on?

  1. #1
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    Unhappy R380 the saga continues...what is going on?

    Im at my wits end..
    changed the master and slave cylinders, the bendy hose, the clutch bearing (HD) the clutch release arm (HD) reassemble...the bearing was not even, pulled the whole bloody thing out again, reassemble...test..select HIGH LOCKED diff...sweet front and rear prop shafts mounts running....(prop shaft not on) select HIGH OPEN diff...front prop shaft running, rear nothing....I didn't think it was front wheel drive in the open selection?....please tell me its not FUBARED..im so over this...no knocking noises, sounds like before I cracked her open .

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DEPENDER View Post
    I didn't think it was front wheel drive in the open selection
    When it's an open centre diff (unlocked) the drive goes to the point of least resistance - in your case it's the front.
    Scott

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scouse View Post
    When it's an open centre diff (unlocked) the drive goes to the point of least resistance - in your case it's the front.




    only prob, was that was with no resistance, ie, no prop shaft just the fitting on the box turning...I have 4WD upper/lower. but what only seems to be front wheel drive in the OPEN selection...


    the bearing is making a bit of a squeak again...not convinced it is the bearing but, and nervous its something in the RHS of gearbox..


    im wet through with sweat, been at it all day, managed to get the box back in after 3 attempts with 7 different ratchet straps, nothing else, on 12mm gravel.. by myself..


    I just want it to go again.....arrrrggghhhh...

  4. #4
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    I don't get your problem. This is just basic 101 how-a-diff-works. An open diff will always first spin the shaft with the least load, that's why the locking diff was invented, to allow drive to one output shaft with the other shaft free to spin. Either refit the front shaft or lock the centre diff and your vehicle will drive just fine.

  5. #5
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    Agreed, the front will always turn because the rear has the handbrake drag resistance, jam the front so it won't turn and the rear will turn . its just how a diff works.

    for example, look at this. not a defender but it has a centre diff just the same.
    someone told me the Iveco has traction control, so I jacked up both left wheels to show it does not.

    you see the rear wheel stops because its got more drag (handbrake) than the front , then just the front wheel spins faster.

    then center diff is engaged,

    then rear diff lock engaged to drive off jacks

    [ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPdUniClY8c&list=UUHKalSdygvobDs7eAivF5Tw[/ame]

  6. #6
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    think i got it..fingers crossed

    ok, i see what you mean, both diffs on, no weird noises (well nothing new...) i can only taxi her on the 10 ft of driveway till i get a housemate to move their car, then i'll let you know...seems ok at this stage...
    yippee...(not too early sunshine!)


    might have been a case of premature freak out at the idea of a Ashcroft trans...then fitting it myself...that would be the 4th time to pull it out, and to put it in...OMG...


    still glad i know i can do it on the side of a track...HA

  7. #7
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    Farout that sounds painful, I'd lend you my crane I you were close

  8. #8
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    Smile THANKYOU you mob!

    Well, im overjoyed, about to take it for a the first real run, went round the block a few times just to test it...YAY IT LIVES!


    so I greased all the nipples, cleaned everything as I put it back, painted the spot rust on the bell housing cover, cleaned...still got the squeak at the fan bearing, but a bit of lithium grease and I will stop...so its back to normal with lessons learnt..skin will grow back.


    thanks so much for your help and patience, I thought I had buggered it and was having a bit of a melt down (its 30 something and humid as buggery...haha)


    cheers guys, long live the landy!

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