HI All
just crossed Billing off my bucket list.
While there I purchased replacement LED headlight 220 Pounds a pair.
Spoke to a number of sellers abput left/right bias. All advised in the E U & US LED's have no bias adjustment is only by the adjustment screws.
This was one issue I was concerned about.
They had the Speaker EVO 2 for 499pound.
Anyhow wil let you know how they go when fitted.
Will say there seems to be a number of 7inc replacement brands hitting the market so expect the price to drop in the future.
Has anyone here purchased a set of Noldens recently? There seems to be a second generation available now that has a horizontal daytime running light across the middle of the lamp. I'm not sure what I think of them...hard to tell without seeing them in the flesh.
Nolden LED headlights Generation 2 with DRL - 4x4overlander
4x4overlander.com - Supplying Overland Travellers still has the first gen lights on their website for a decent price so I might just go with them.
Look up “Headlight Revolution” on YouTube. They have done a great series testing a whole bunch of 7” round LED headlamps.
I kind of went the other way in my RRC build. I have the Truck Lite 7 LEDs in my 110 and was enjoying good light. When I bought my RRC it had horrible blue aftermarket lights. I looked at buying LEDs but I thought they looked a bit weird on a truck that I was trying to keep Classic-looking.
But, since everyone is going to LED, the workshop I visit had a bunch of Hella H4 lenses laying around, which I picked up for free. I grabbed a pair of Hella H4 90/130 bulbs for $12 and I am very pleased with the look and the light output. In town they are perfect.
I have a set of IPF spot/floods for bush driving that I will be mounting in a few months.
Fitted a pair of noldens recently, same as found on the defender works V8
Dipped beam has a razor sharp cut off and spreads out wide. Beyond the cut off it is pitch black. No spill. Not sure thats a good thing.
High beam is narrow and shoots straight ahead with little flood up, down or to the sides.
Out on the trails you need high beam to flood out in all directions. But these lights effectively switch between low and wide OR straight ahead narrow. Its one or the other. High beam does not build ontop of low beam.
Hopefully I can find a way to get both projectors lit up for a true full beam!
I'm in the middle of a project to improve my lighting.
1. I installed relays to take the full current out of the headlight switch - DONE
2. I bought these LED headlights (DOT approved) with halo daytime running lights - DONE
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3. I'm regretting step #2 because I have a problem...
I have yet to complete the wiring, I've purchased a Hella smart DRL controller that will turn the halo on when the engine starts, and should also turn the halo off when the low beams come on (this is a new law in NZ)
The headlights have a small red lead next to the main plug which is suppose to control the halo. Trouble is, the halo ALSO seems to be energised by the main headlight. In other words, when I turn my headlights on the halo comes on...and the red wire is not even connected to anything yet.
Clearly if I can't sort this the headlights will have to go back, or I will fail my next WOF inspection.
Can anyone who has installed a similar unit shed some light (see what I did there?).
I'm not giving you the branch because I don't know...$200 Chinese generic.
Use your park/side lights for DRL. Many Defenders were wired up to put the dip beam on with side lights using a dim dip relay. If you have the dim dip relay, ditch it. Then add the halo to the side light circuit. You dont need a drl sensor, just turn your side lights on when you get in the car!
Ps. Regarding NZ law. Those halos are not considered DRL lights, they are part of the main headlight assembly which is dot approved. The halo can be on with the dip/main beam, as intended.
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