HELP - Spinning primary pinion (I think)

What brand of clutch is it, I've had crook ones out of the box. I had one in a 308 Torana that did the same thing felt like it should have worked it but even though the diaphram was breaking over, it was not lifting the pressure plate enough. Hellspawn could also have a point, the first LT77 I rebuilt was from a Ser3 Jag xj6, I got the floats wrong and it wouldn't go into gear.
There is also an adjustment on the clutch pedal to alter the stroke slightly, it may just be the clutch is draging because it has not burnished yet.

The clutch is from Clutch Industries in Thomastown, though I had to buy though an auto shop as they don't retail.

Jay, I like your idea of removing the tailshafts and loosening it up. I had it running with the clutch depressed and the car in Reverse (and 4th) for about an hour in the drive way, but that didn't do anything. I suppose if the tightness is in the box, rather than the spiggot, exercising the spiggot with my little manuevre wouldn't have loosened the box.

Another exercise I tried was to drive down hill, clutch and turn the motor off (then turn ign back on for steering and indicators). I hoped that the box turning [in gear] and the motor stationary, might release any pressure on the spiggot. I found that this exercise worked some times, but occasionally the motor would start, even with the clutch in (indicating some contact).

I'm @ work @ the moment, but when I get home, I'll double check that the clutch was put in right by comparing it to the old, and try driving around to "loosen the box."

Thanks for the input, it gives me a few other things to consider and rule in/out before I take drastic labour intensive steps.

did you have any trouble aligning/bolting the gearbox to the engine?
did it fall into place with the bellhousing flush up agaist the engine without too much force?

Did I have trouble aligning the box?

Hmmm - Gravel driveway, only one trolley jack, I would have to say [size=24]<span style="color:red">YES</span>.

Having said that, once the shaft was in, it didn't take long to align the splines and the box slid in till it touched the locating lugs, then it needed some assistance.

What are you thinking DZ?

for a start if the box isnt sitting flush against the engine it will cause it to keep spinning.



if you have the engine running and you press the clutch down and hold it for three or four seconds can you then select reverse without it grinding?
how about first?

I don't think you will loosen the spiggot unless it's got plenty of lube on it, if it's tight I reckon it may be more likly get hot and pick up. Is the bush new? did you oil it properly by squeezing oil through it? So is the clutch a remanfactured unit or band new. When you did the box did you set the preloads and end floats or just put it back the way it came a part. Bearings vary greatly in size (Timkens are normally pretty close) but other brands are all over the place.
My money is still on a crook clutch that's dragging. Tight floats in a box normally make them hard to shift between gears not into low or rev and in fact helps the clutch to stop because the box is tight. Yours is still spinning, check the pedal adustment and give the clutch a slip to burnish it, could just be the driven plate is a bit furry. It could also be tight on the first montion shaft and not coming of the flywheel. Did you compare the throw out bearings, I have had the wrong one supplied before that is a different hieght. I've been caught with clutches a few times particularly remanufactured ones, I won't use them except in a HQ because you can change them in 1 hour if they don't work. In an LR I always use a brand new Borg & Beck or Valeo it's not worth the mucking around to save a few bucks, my time is worth more.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Michael2


Jay, I like your idea of removing the tailshafts and loosening it up. I had it running with the clutch depressed and the car in Reverse (and 4th) for about an hour in the drive way, but that didn't do anything. I suppose if the tightness is in the box, rather than the spiggot, exercising the spiggot with my little manuevre wouldn't have loosened the box.

Another exercise I tried was to drive down hill, clutch and turn the motor off (then turn ign back on for steering and indicators). I hoped that the box turning [in gear] and the motor stationary, might release any pressure on the spiggot. I found that this exercise worked some times, but occasionally the motor would start, even with the clutch in (indicating some contact).

I'm @ work @ the moment, but when I get home, I'll double check that the clutch was put in right by comparing it to the old, and try driving around to "loosen the box."

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The shafts were already off the transfer as I had the thing out so really just didn't hook them back up. More out of safety than anything knowledgable about the act of rebuilding the box, as I had no real idea how tight the box was relatively (besides by measurement) as turning it by hand was firm. Figured if there's no connection to the wheels pretty much means it won't move if it is too tight.

What you want is first gear to start with, high imput speed from the motor and slower output so things start to wear.

All this from someone who regularly destroys his own gearbox. :roll:

Shaun is probably right though, wonky clutch.

Quote:

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Originally posted by Michael2
This model does have a spiggot bush. I smeared some oil on the bush and the shaft, just prior to assembly.

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Since you are heavily focussed on the spigot bush, I have to say this caught my attention. I'm assuming this is all the lubrication you gave the bush? ShaunP also asked directly above did you "SQUEEZE oil THROUGH" the sintered brass spigot bush? He knows way more than me, but he didn't elaborate.

The "correct" procedure to lube a sintered brass spigot bush is NOT to simply "smear" oil on it. You're 'supposed to' place the bush vertically on the end of one thumb, fill the inside to the brim with motor oil, then place your other thumb on top and compress the oil. Observe as you squeeze, after 10-30 seconds, oil will visibly start seeping through the sides of the porous bush. This extra oil embedded in the material of the bush itself is what is supposed to properly lubricate the bush.

I'd always thought of this procedure as guaranteeing long term life and didn't realise it could cause a problem immediately if not performed, but stranger things have happened. It's one thing you KNOW to try anyway. And it is the 'correct' way to do it, AFAIK.
Back to lurking. I don't even own a LR. :oops: Have to stick to borrowing the old man's Jackeroo for now...in my dreams. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

I used the old thrust bearing, as I had only replaced it 40,000km ago and it was fine. I also used the old spiggot bush as I didn't pull the fly wheel off.

I didn't saturate the bush as suggested though.

I'll try slipping the clutch a bit and driving the car a bit. I'll have no daylight available to me till Tuesday (work). I'll then back off the bell housing bolts and start it up, see if that rectifies any misalignement pressure.

The lay shaft spins with the clutch depressed, making reverse impossible. First is very difficult, but possible, the other gears are fine. I think that the forward gears manage because of the synchros.

If I go into gear, stop the layshaft spinning and then Jedi manuevre it into reverse I don't hear any adventitious sounds from the gearbox (using a stethascope on the gearstick), so there's nothing grinding away.

The clutch engages smoothly, and even with no load (the transfer case in neutral) there's no shudder that I'd expect from a clutch problem. Then again the old clutch (@406,000km) still had plenty of wear left above the rivets, it never slipped or shuddered, but the plates holding the springs in had drifted apart 1mm and the springs were loose!

As for reassembly, I used a new main and lay shafts and primary pinion. New bearings and new 3-4 synchro with some new synchro rings too. I basically reassembled, didn't measure end floats.
:oops:

Thanks again for all the input, I'll keep you posted on progress / diagnostics etc.