HELP - Spinning primary pinion (I think)

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Originally posted by Michael2

As for reassembly, I used a new main and lay shafts and primary pinion. New bearings and new 3-4 synchro with some new synchro rings too. I basically reassembled, didn't measure end floats.
:oops:

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8O GULP !

I don't think you could get that much misalignment, The LT77 I did from the jag XJ6 I did it like you just put it together which was the first one of these I had done back in the early 90's, it didn't work either, had to pull it out and start again, set the end floats and it was sweet in fact the car was here this morning, as the owner wanted to borrow a jag cam setting tool, but I seem to remember it would go into low and rev but nothing else. I still reckon you have a clutch problem. Is it a clutch for a landrover or something else that's kind of the same.

Now home. Checked the old clutch, and yes I did put it (the new clutch) in the right way. But NO, it's not a genuine clutch.

Let's now assume that it's a clutch and not a spiggot problem. Is this likely to rectify itself through use, or will it need a total clutch replacement. Incidentally, I only replaced the clutch plate as the pressure plate was fine with no cracking. I did give the pressure plate a slight sand with an orbital sander (gently) to scuff the mirror finish it had.

And Shaunp, out of curiosity, where is the adjustment for the clutch travel? I cannot find anything in the manual (RAVE).

Thanks again for your help with this guys.

its gotta be the clutch...he cant get it into gear to test the box as the input shaft wont stop spinning.

if there is a problem with the box he wont know that till he can put in into gear.



did you compare the the old and new clutches side by side to see if there was any difference when you had it appart?

I didn't compare the clutches side to side :oops:
I thought that when I ordered a RR clutch, that would be pretty much what I got.

The gearbox drives really well & quietly, gear changes are easy on the move, first is notchy at stand still. Reverse works fine, noisy in a reverse kind of way but nothing unusual or grinding.

I might call the clutch manufacturer (Clutch Industries) tomorrow and get the dimensions for their RR clutch, then compare them to the old clutch.

Any other ideas? Suggestions? Advice? Solutions?

Thanks

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Any other ideas? Suggestions? Advice? Solutions?[/b][/quote]

scream really loud and start pulling your hair out 8O :wink:


good luck mate hope you get it sorted soon before you loose all your hair :wink: :wink:


sorry mate i couldn't help myself :evil:

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Originally posted by Michael2
Incidentally, I only replaced the clutch plate as the pressure plate was fine with no cracking.

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I know this is not helpful, but it's kind of asking for problems to not replace the pressure plate even if it does look OK. And that's ignoring the issue you don't have a MATCHED (brand) pressure plate and clutch plate which might microscopically screw up the amount of room that is allowed for your new plate between F/wheel & pressure plate.

Ditto for getting the flywheel machined and replacing the spigot bush, especially if the old clutch did so many kms. I assume LR flywheels CAN be machined? Some new cars cannot but I doubt this is so for LR. Generally, there's a number of little clearances to be stuffed up if you don't ensure a perfect surface. Like brake disks, the friction surfaces can be less true and contain more raised, hardened heat spots than casual inspection might suggest. Overall, this is why ShaunP says he only uses reputable new clutch KITS, so's he dosn't waste time tearing his hair out like this. :wink:

I suspect you'll get away with it regardless once you wear the furry surface off the plate. If you had to drive back from the Kimberlies right now it sounds like you'd make it, but all those old parts do not make for "perfection" from the word go.

The pressure plate and flywheel will be glazed so it will probably take a while for the driven plate to bed and burnish, slip it a bit but don't cook it and it will probably come good. The bolt that holds the master cylinder rod to the pedal is eccentric, and gives some adjustment, loosen the nut and rotate the bolt to change the travel.

Thanks Shaun, I'll try the adjustment. The more I hear the less I think it's a spiggot problem as there seems to be no resistence or noise when the box is in gear and stationary, or when the car is rolling in gear with the motor off.

I'll try to get under the car with a stethoscope on the bell housing and get someone to go in and out of gear and see (hear) what noises eminate from there.

I pulled the gearbox out again today, looks like the spiggot bush was the culprit, probably some grit jammed in there. I've replaced it, but had trouble aligning the box back in before I ran out of daylight, so I'll let you know how I go when I (hopefully) finish the job tomorrow.