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Thread: Gearbox Mainshaft Wear

  1. #1
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    Gearbox Mainshaft Wear

    Hi All,

    I have read most of the threads listed over the past year or so concerning spline wear on the gearbox output mainshaft. In particular I have followed the thread at
    http://www.aulro.com/modules.php?name=Foru...iewtopic&t=1281

    Great stuff.

    I think i am happy with the whole issue but have a couple of additional questions. I have a 94 Disco V8 manual (early R380) - first batch of the updates - I have had the car from new and it is just coming up to 100,000 km. The car has done little offroad work and little around town work - mainly high speed expressway work. However due to clutch and engine cutting out problems early in its life the drive train has had a bit of a hammering in its life.

    The drive train is starting to get a bit slack which I am assuming is the early stages of the above problem - just noticeable but not a major problem yet. Clearly I can simply get the Transfer Case Input gear drilled as described and that will stabilise the drivetrain slack but I would prefer to remove as much of it as possible without playing around with the gearbox - will do that when the clutch is due.

    Questions

    1. When the wear takes place, is there equal wear on the mainshaft splines and the splines on the input gear - if not which wears the most or what wear ratios can I expect eg 30% mainshaft/50% input gear.

    2. If I put in a new transfer case input gear onto the worn mainshft splines the drive train slack will be reduced but not removed - does anyone have any ideas how I could reduce the slack further eg different transfer case oil, products that are supposed to help slightly worn splines etc

    3. If I do nothing, at what sort of KM does the problem become - exactly that - a problem?

    I am inclined to put a new new transfer case input gear but if I cannot expect an improvement in the drive train slack then I am inclined to get the gear drilled or not worry about it and do the mainshaft and input gear when the clutch needs to be renewed - but given the type of driving I do this is not likely to happen in the near future.

    Answers to the questions and other thoughts would be appreciated.


    Thanks

    Gazz


    94 Disco
    98 Freelander TD - currently only Front WD

  2. #2
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    Hi Gazz,
    when I bought my 1988 Range Rover with 220,000km on it, I had a post purchase vehicle inspection done by a thorough and reputable Land Rover mechanic. He advised that I don't do any long & remote trips before attending to the shaft wear.

    185,000 km later I cooked the gearbox, but the shaft was still going, (albiet 85% worn :!: :!: 8O :!: ). I drove gently, that is to say, no harsh gear changes and 5th gear only for prolonged speed over 90kph.

    I've now bought a new shaft and gear and the car feels sooooo tight [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] :!:

    It's a total gearbox disassembly to do the shaft, I can't comment on doing the gear only, but McNamara's (Difflock) told me that doing the gear only prolongs the life of the transmission, even at high km's.

  3. #3
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    The transfer cases are different between 88 and 94, the 94 car will be a 230t, t means taper bearings this is the problem they pump oil away from the spline. At 100k it may still be ok and you will get away with drilling the gear or replacing it. The wear on the shaft and gear are normally similar. At 100k your car will also want an A frame ball joint, this will be some of the slack. I find that the splines are about 1/2 worn at 180-200k. Having said that mine was done at 60k by LR for free.

  4. #4
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    The other place you could do with checking for wear are the splines on the rear hubs....

    Mark.

  5. #5
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    OK my experiance.

    My Defender 1994 LT77 box and 200k on the clock.

    Gear was worn about 50% shaft about 30%

    OK here is what i did.
    i asked lots of people the best thing and they all said, Rebuild....

    So one guy who always serviced it said, just replace the gear with a new one cross drilled and then wait until it is rooted before you rebuild

    So rebuild is about $3k, versus gear with shimming $300-$400

    I know which way i would go....

  6. #6
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    Thanks to all you guys for the replies - sort of reinforces my own thoughts

    I think I will buy a new cross drilled transfer case gear and have that put in - with only a relatively small amount of wear on the shaft that should take most of the lack out. When I do the clutch next I will pull the gearbox down and replace the mainshaft then and anything else like synchros, bearings etc that needs doing - it will be realtively cheap doing the heavy work myself and sub-contracting the techo bits - I remember seeing some threads on the a-frame ball joint so will take the easy way out and get an exchange unit - relatively cheap.

    Thanks for the pointers.

    Gazz

  7. #7
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    ...Don't forget to use a decent oil in there too.

    Mark.

  8. #8
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    Penrite 10 tenths synth 75/90 race oil.

  9. #9
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    I was quoted the price of the gear at $280 - just need to confirm the number of teeth on the gear (95MY but actually built Jan 94) - guess I will have to check when I pull the old one out - seems like a pretty cheap fix if the problem is identified early - also if identified early, then no other parts should be needed other than the oil you mentioned Mark. I will need to investigate this a little more - winter morning temperatures -4 to -6 sometimes - summer afternoons up around 35 or higher.

  10. #10
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    Originally posted by garrycol
    I was quoted the price of the gear at $280 - just need to confirm the number of teeth on the gear (95MY but actually built Jan 94) - guess I will have to check when I pull the old one out - seems like a pretty cheap fix if the problem is identified early - also if identified early, then no other parts should be needed other than the oil you mentioned Mark. I will need to investigate this a little more - winter morning temperatures -4 to -6 sometimes - summer afternoons up around 35 or higher.
    We've done some temp tests in the UK and found that operating temperatures tend not to be much of a problem but we have still had failures & excessive wear... (The fitting of an over-temperature sender to the R380 is quite simple and the wiring for the dash warning light is already there on the Defender!)

    The key to solving most gearbox problems is the oil. LandRover have used ATF for years, this is completely wrong and is too thin to lubricate properly. Recently, LandRover have changed to MTF which is soooo much better.

    HTH

    Mark.

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