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Thread: Rear control arm to chassis bushes

  1. #11
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    What are everyone's thoughts on the johnny jointed rear arms like those available from Terrafirma or Gigglepin? Take the bush out of the equation?

  2. #12
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    Superpro are great.

    Paddockspares in the UK are the cheapest (strange as it may seem, for an Aussie made product), that's where my last full set came from.

    cheers, DL

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    Do they last?
    I've had them for 20000km including crossing the desert twice and the cape once. They still look new.

    Quote Originally Posted by komaterpillar View Post
    What are everyone's thoughts on the johnny jointed rear arms like those available from Terrafirma or Gigglepin? Take the bush out of the equation?
    Pretty sure they're illegal as they don't gradually wear like a rubber bush. Also I think they're quite noisy.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by POD View Post
    My 130 has about 60mm lift which I realise puts extra stress on these, but I had expected better than this- in fact the ones that were replaced had been in for at least 60,000k which included a Kinberley trip plus numerous high country trips since the lift was done. These were supplied as 'From original equipment manufacturer', I will be contacting the supplier.

    I know LRA do an angled version of this bush, wondering if anyone has had any experience with them, whether they are in fact a solution to this problem.

    I don't want to crank the arms as I think this introduces a fail point.
    You mention you don't want to crank the arms as it introduces a fail point, but, by lifting the suspension 60mm without compensating the trailing arm bushings for a greater angle - wouldn't that be encouraging a worse fail point?

    I suspect the OE supplier would be saying they would have been fine on normal height, unmodified suspension.

    I have installed APT cranked trailing arms on my D1 as the bushes were always stressed at an angle even with only a 50mm lift. The APT arms are a lot thicker and stronger than stock, so I only figure by removing the stress, the life of the bushing and its effective travel have only been improved. Bushes are now unstressed in the new "normal" position. This I understand was only one solution, next to angled bushings etc, but given the D1 trailing arms are puny anyway it seemed like a good solution to the problem.

    The Superpro bushes do look good though.

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spel1 View Post
    .................
    The Superpro bushes do look good though.
    When you see them in the flesh, i.e. in situ (in my pos with a 2" lift) the chamfer and groove makes absolute perfect sense. Even the crush tubes and washers are better than anyone else's.

    DL

  6. #16
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    i echo the voices for Superpro. OEM were lasting 2 to 3 days of axle twisting 4wding before looking as bad as the pic. Superpro has been in for 8 months and look new. I bought Superpro from the UK as a complete bush kit for all suspension and systematically replaced the OEM as they wore out. MLD

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spel1 View Post
    You mention you don't want to crank the arms as it introduces a fail point, but, by lifting the suspension 60mm without compensating the trailing arm bushings for a greater angle - wouldn't that be encouraging a worse fail point?
    With a straight control arm, all the driving force is transmitted in a straight line from the bush at the axle end to the bush at the chassis end- even though the rubber of the bush is compressed on one side more than the other side due to the lift. If a bend is introduced into the steel rod, all the driving force (which is considerable when the axle is pushing a loaded 130 up a steep hill) is trying to bend the rod further. I'd rather chop the bushes out than have the rear suspension destroyed by the control arm collapsing whilst climbing a hill.

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