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Thread: DIFF OIL LEAKS

  1. #1
    rangie5litre Guest

    DIFF OIL LEAKS

    G'day all, both my F & R diffs are leaking a little oil on my '84 Rangie, looks to be coming from the pinion seal. It's gone beyond acceptable 'seepage 8O and I was wondering if this is a specialist type job or a basic at home in the driveway type job?

    All help appreciated! Cheers Scott 8)

  2. #2
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    Re: DIFF OIL LEAKS

    Originally posted by rangie5litre
    G'day all, both my F & R diffs are leaking a little oil on my '84 Rangie, looks to be coming from the pinion seal. It's gone beyond acceptable 'seepage 8O and I was wondering if this is a specialist type job or a basic at home in the driveway type job?

    All help appreciated! Cheers Scott 8)
    Hi Scott,

    Not a difficult job for the DIY handy bloke at all. Have done a number of them on my old '76 Rangie and back & front on the Defender.

    Simply undo the 4 nyloc nuts on the tail shaft at the diff, drop down, place large breaker bar or tyre lever in protuding bolts and undo large nut holding pinion flange in (this takes some grunt as on about 148lbs torque (check manual for exact to refit), but can be done if jam the breaker bar against chassis or where ever can be done, like your mates knee :wink:

    Tap on one side of seal with a drift/ screw driver taking care but don't pussy foot around give a good tap, and withdraw. Wipe inside of diff housing and clear of old dirt and grime.

    Examine pinion flange for for groove on part that goes into seal. Like mine had a fair groove, get some cloth emery and slowly sand until smooth again (realy smooth) you can rig up a jig on a drill in a bench stand easier but not neccessary but quicker.

    Buy a seal with twin retaining clip seal of rubber not leather seal as they weap if not driven regularly as get stiff when not hot and used a lot.

    Refit in reverse (drift seal in gently tapping evenly on all sides until in the same distance as original which you noted when pulling it out) and use new nylock nuts when put tale shaft back on

    I'm a salesman not a mechanic its not that hard have a go, have fun.

    Cheers
    Bryce 8)

  3. #3
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    It's quite an easy job to do but make sure you also make sure that the breather isn't blocked. The only times I've had a weaping seal, it has been caused by a blocked breather.

    HTH

    Mark.

  4. #4
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    if your pinion flange is grooved ....there are places that sell sleeves that fit over the seal surface....much quicker and easier than sitting there sanding.....

    not sure where to get them however.....i think bearing places sell them.

  5. #5
    Defender200Tdi Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>if your pinion flange is grooved ....there are places that sell sleeves that fit over the seal surface....much quicker and easier than sitting there sanding.....

    not sure where to get them however.....i think bearing places sell them.[/b][/quote]


    They're called speedi-sleeves, and they can be had from bearing places like CBC etc. About $30 a shot and they work a treat. :wink:


    Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

  6. #6
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    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>place large breaker bar or tyre lever in protuding bolts and undo large nut holding pinion flange in (this takes some grunt as on about 148lbs torque (check manual for exact to refit), but can be done if jam the breaker bar against chassis or where ever can be done, like your mates knee [/b][/quote]


    this is easier if you get someone in the car with their foot on the brake!
    alot less painfull.

  7. #7
    Hellspawn Guest
    Originally posted by discowhite

    this is easier if you get someone in the car with their foot on the brake!
    alot less painfull.
    Still difficult to do when cramped under there trying to get the nut to undo. When I did HS's it was on a steep drive and levelled with ramps so there was reasonable clearance to get my "extension handle" (3ft long waterpipe :wink: ) on the breaker bar.

    Often wondered if there was only flat ground and just yourself whether the vehicle could be used to undo the the nut by creeping back with the socket on the nut and breaker bar jammed up the chassis rail ? :?

  8. #8
    rangie5litre Guest
    Thanks All for the advice, I'll check the breathers[could try some of my Ventolin maybe? 8O ] errr just kidding!

    Sort of on topic, does anyone use synthetic gear oils in the diffs and transfer case?

    Cheers & Thanks, Scott.

  9. #9
    Defender200Tdi Guest
    <div class='quotetop'>QUOTE</div><div class='quotemain'>Sort of on topic, does anyone use synthetic gear oils in the diffs and transfer case?[/b][/quote]

    I use a semi synthetic since the last oil change. The first thing I noticed was a significant drop in noise level from the transfer case. That could only be a good thing!!


    Paul [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

  10. #10
    rangie5litre Guest
    Thanks Paul, that's what I hoped! I've removed a lot of deadening material[got VERY wet!] and now the t/case is audible above the exhaust note 8O



    Cheers Scott. 8)

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