Yesterday I finished fitting the new head to the disco (300tdi) - for those of you that have followed my previous two threads on this (which head to buy / to glue or not to glue) I followed all of the wisdom that was imparted to me. I have also done this a few times before too!
Block surgically clean, threads also as clean, block checked for true - less than 1 thou, bolts tightened correctly, Elring gasket and no other glues / sprays. Brand new head, bolts and gasket fitted.
To cut a very long and disappointing story short I have an exhaust leak into the coolant (again / still).
I need some help from the collected brains trust again please. Clearly I will have to pull the head, but, if it is a cracked block, how do I find the crack? What else can be causing this?
AT RESTHamish, I spoke to a few mechanics on this and they all suggested a crack in the block or a low spot. Since you had 2 other heads have a problem, the head will have to be removed again and a check if the blow by on the gasket to determine if it is blowing in the same area as the other 2 previous heads.
Regards,
Mario
AT REST
Do you have any pics of the old head gasket, esp. where it blew, where about on the block surface did you get the "less than 1 thou" reading, did you check the bores for cracks, also cracks in block from through to crankcase holes (lifters etc.) near water jacket holes, when you remove head again take pics of head gasket for us to diagnose, Regards Frank.
Originally Posted by Hamish3300
RoverLord
how many measurements did you take onh the block/head and is your straight edge straight?
bet its the small coolant triangle lbetween #2+3
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
AT RESTFunny you should mention the straight edge Blknight. A piece of straight steel or alloy is not as accurate as a dedicated straight edge made for the purpose.
To the best of my capacity my straight edge is straight. Yes it is a dedicated engineer's straight edge, tested in both directions and reading the same result in the same place (indicating true). It is, however, a viable and worthwhile question.
Other than visually, how do I test the block for cracks?
Master
Dye Penetrant Testing would be possible.
Probably need to drop the crank and rods though.
'95 Defender 130 Single Cab
HS2.8 TGV Powered
------------
98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
The other 2% made it home.
Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.
RoverLord
checking your straightedge for straight against whast you're trying to measure isnt the best thing in terms of validity, its better than nothing.
you can magnaflux it, you can dye tst it, you can ultrasound it and you can pressure test it.
theres lots of works invovled in making it happen and a dye penetrant kit is usually the cheapest DIY. they come in two flavors UV which is the simplest and most detailed but is also easy to misread for a false positive and then theres a powder absorbing one which is harder to set up and use properly but is less prone to alse positives but if you get it wrong will completely wash out rendering the test pointless and you'll need to redo it.
the pressure tesst involves making up a set of dummy plates to block the main cooling holes in the deck an he you fill nd crank up the pressure on the cooling system, DO NOT do this with the radiator hooked up... BAD thigs hapen to it at about 40psi.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
AT RESTI spoke to another mechanic today, and he informs me best take it to an engine shop where they heat the block up and pressure test it after blocking the galleries.
If when the original over heat occurred, if someone refilled cold water to a hot engine then that would be a sure way to crack a block.
regards,
Mario
AT REST
We had 2 gaskets go on a rebuilt 300 tdi it turned out to be the block not the heads. Block had a depression but my steel ruler was to long to fit in the engine bay so couldn't test it the head was fineuntil we overheated it the 2nd time
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