Thread: TD5 Engine cutout (previously TD5 problem)

<span style="color:blue">if you are getting oil at your ecu you will need to replace your injectors with the newer version.....these wont leak oil into the ecu....

as for getting gradually worse and cutting out....it sounds like some sensor is overheating and stopping the engine from running until it cools down enough to allow it to start again.....

OR......



it is losing fuel pressure till it gets so bad it wont run until it rests enough to build up pressure again...have you tried driving it with the fuel cap off to vent the fuel tank?
have you checked that the fuel filter isnt blocked?


another possibility may be the turbo is over boosting...this will go into some sort of limp mode which stops it from boosting and reduces engine power....

let me know what exactly you have checked and the results....
it sounds like a nice challenge......</span>

Septimus,

if there is oil in the main engine wiring harness and it has travelled all the way to the Engine ECU, both the 'injector' and 'main engine' wiring harnesses will require replacement.

The injectors do not need to be replaced for a case of oil ingress into the wiring harness.

The above repair is the very least that will need to carried out in your case.

In a very bad case of oil ingress, there is a very slight chance that if the oil has been sitting in the Engine ECU harness connector for long enough, that some of it may have made its way down the pins of the ECU and inside the unit - this can sometimes require the ECU to also be replaced.

As far as your engine cutting out after a short period of time and not restarting straight away - this is commonly caused when the fuel system has ingested a small amount of air.

2 possiblities for this are (and there can be heaps) -

Air ingress can come from numerous places in the fuel system - probably the most common spot on the Td5 is at the fuel filter housing. There is an o'ring on the bleed valve that leaks and cause the symptoms you have desribed.

Another less likey cause of air ingress could be leaking 'flame rings' on the base of the injectors. If these leak slightly, combustion gasses will pass from the combustion chamber into the fuel system resulting in the symptoms you have described. This fault can be checked for by carrying out a fuel pressure test. If the flame rings are leaking - the fuel pressure will be much higher than the normal 60 psi that should be in the system. If this is the case - the flame rings can easily be replaced.

Good luck.

Cheers,

MARCEL

First up, thanks for the intelligent feedback.

OK, so what is going on here???? I did as DefenderZook suggested and drove without the fuel cap on for about 8km. The engine did the usual power loss thing but differently it never stalled and it would lose power, then regain it, then lose it and so on.

I came home and later took it for another run with the fuel cap on to make a comparison. Started from cold and drove some 20km without any problems. Why????

And, Defute, I had the injector harness replaced recently so that is OK. I guess the oil in the plug was a build up from before. I removed the ECU from the vehicle so I could be sure that the sockets were also cleaned properly. I was going to remove the cover off the ECU to check inside for oil but found it was sealed tight so figured it better to leave that alone for the time being.

This morning before I took if for a drive I cleaned down the fuel filter and checked the connection where the air bleed valve is located to be sure that was tight. It was.

I will do some more test drives over the next few days. If it then seems to be going OK I will get it down to Cairns for a testbook reading. Can't really do that if it is stalling as the road from here is steep, narrow and winding and it would create havoc if I blocked one lane - and be mighty dangerous! Hmmm maybe a write-off and insurance claim [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/wink.gif[/img]

Well I think it is narrowed down now. The problem came back after about 27km when I was on a dirt road to nowhere, out of GSM range! Would not start. Eventually realised that the buzzing noise made by the fuel pump was not there. Tried switching on ignition several times over a period and eventually the buzzing came back, although not a consistent note. However the engine still would not start.

Then tried the procedure for starting after a dry fuel tank and it fired up. Had it fail several more times on the 20km trip home and each time when the buzzing returned used the dry tank procedure and got it started.

So it is looking pretty much like a fuel pump problem?

<span style="color:green">well...now that you have something consistent to go on its a start....
is the pump playing up?
or is something telling it to switch off....im not sure exactly how they work...
if its meant to run constantly then you have a faulty pump....
maybe someone else can confirm that the pump is meant to run whilst ever the ignition switch is on.... or i might go and check on mine in the morning for you.....


how old is the car?</span>