Thread: LT230 Clunk

Does it only clunk just after you start to move, or can it make the noise as you load up but still stationary. The former would explain why you think it is something binding up, but if you can get it to clunk before you move then you would think it is excessive backlash in the drive train, could even be from diff. Had similar with a D1 that was a failing Uni joint.

An extended stethoscope that you could attach to different points would be handy.

Definitely check the rear prop shaft nuts are tight at both ends.

Edit: just saw the video sorry. Was on my phone. Probably not suspension.

May well be your center diff. I had a clunk like that only a bit worse. What it could be is the center diff has back lash. When you take of the front prop shaft and the rear prop shaft start need to take up that back lash hence the clunk. Taking the rear shaft of as you did removes this take up. This is why I suggest it is the center diff. There are four bronze cup washers and some fiber shims in the the center diff that will over time wear. So not knowing the age of you landy , these may be the problem.
Cheers Hall

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Does it only clunk just after you start to move, or can it make the noise as you load up but still stationary. The former would explain why you think it is something binding up, but if you can get it to clunk before you move then you would think it is excessive backlash in the drive train, could even be from diff. Had similar with a D1 that was a failing Uni joint.

An extended stethoscope that you could attach to different points would be handy.

Does it JUST as I start to move, I have thought about purchasing a remote/wireless ear but i'm pretty sure from the video its in the transfer case

Originally Posted by Judo

Definitely check the rear prop shaft nuts are tight at both ends.

Edit: just saw the video sorry. Was on my phone. Probably not suspension..

not suspension, I drove the car for a day without the rear prop, no clunk, replaced with fresh bolts

Originally Posted by Hall

May well be your center diff. I had a clunk like that only a bit worse. What it could be is the center diff has back lash. When you take of the front prop shaft and the rear prop shaft start need to take up that back lash hence the clunk. Taking the rear shaft of as you did removes this take up. This is why I suggest it is the center diff. There are four bronze cup washers and some fiber shims in the the center diff that will over time wear. So not knowing the age of you landy , these may be the problem.
Cheers Hall

This is what I am suspecting, worn thrust washers, I was just hoping for more confirmation, has anyone replaced these without dropping the box? mine runs quiet and has no leaks so I have no other reason to drop the box, looking through the overhaul manual it looks like it should be possible

I dropped the box to do mine. For two reasons though. I overhauled the whole box and due to it being behind a Isuzu gear box there was not the room to get the front section containing the diff off any way. Would be doable though. Others that have done it insitu, if they reply, will tell you weather it is easy enough.
Cheers Hall

In the video looks like the drive shaft is hitting the flange off the hand break hub when it starts to spin

Originally Posted by Duarte19

This is what I am suspecting, worn thrust washers, I was just hoping for more confirmation, has anyone replaced these without dropping the box? mine runs quiet and has no leaks so I have no other reason to drop the box, looking through the overhaul manual it looks like it should be possible

I have just done this, to replace disintegrated thrust washers. Do you mean without dropping the gearbox? You have to drop the transfer box, I reckon.

Transfer box off only is a hell of a lot easier that gearbox/bell housing/transfer box.

I have just tried the same thing driving back and forth with the center diff locked and the clunk is still there but very faint, has definitely changed, are these typical symptoms of worn thrust washers?