Thread: Series 3 Speedo

G'day Phoenix [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
If your speedo needle has been erratic before the cable change it will almost certainly be the rear drive output nut, (1inch SAE) that's the one in the centre of the universal yoke at the handbrake drum, should be at (80 ft.lb.) if you havn't access to a tension wrench just do it up as tight as possible [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] = 1" socket 1/2" drive bar and t-i-gh-t--en :wink: as the output nut sets the preload and locks the speedo worm to the bearing and that will take up any verlicle movement in the output shaft, that in turn will reduce any oil leak from the seal into the H/brake drum [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]
Bung-Tiddley.

Ok, sounds simple enough, but how do I access it? I presume I need to take the driveshaft off, how do I go about that? It liiked a pretty tight fit last time I looked at it.

Originally posted by Phoenix
Ok, sounds simple enough, but how do I access it? I presume I need to take the driveshaft off, how do I go about that? It liiked a pretty tight fit last time I looked at it.

Undo the four nuts holding it to the flange that has the handbrake drum on it. The bolts are captive, but you will find it hard to get at the nuts, and jacking up a rear wheel to allow you to turn the prop shaft helps (remember to chock the wheels as jacking a rear wheel means you have no handbrake, and putting it in four wheel drive is not an option if you want to turn the shaft). You will need an open end spanner or a thin wall 3/8 drive socket, from memory 1/2" (for UNF), with 5/16" bolts. These are probably UNF, but early ones are BSF and as usual, interchangeable, so you can't be sure what you have. If, as most likely they are fitted with nyloc nuts, you should fit new ones, or use loktite. If fitted with spring washers, I'd replace them with nyloc ones, although this could be a problem if they are BSF.

Once you have disconnected the front of the shaft, the big nut is visible. Just move the front of the shaft aside - you don't have to undo the back of it. Remove the split pin and tighten, using a socket (1"?). Fit a new split pin and reassemble. About an hour once you work out how to undo the prop shaft nuts.

Doesn't sound too bad, bit of a fiddle, but when I get the time i'll do it. 1 hour eh. Better make that 2 for me, i'm a bit slow [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/laugh.gif[/img]

Originally posted by Phoenix
Doesn't sound too bad, bit of a fiddle, but when I get the time i'll do it. 1 hour eh. Better make that 2 for me, i'm a bit slow :lol: :lol:

I said one hour AFTER you figure out how to undo the prop shaft nuts! That might take you all day, especially if it turns out you have BSF bolts and no Whitworth spanners. Or if someone has previously rounded off the corners on the nuts.

Sounds like an unpleasant thought. ahh well, we;ll see how it goes :wink:

Originally Posted by Phoenix

Sounds like an unpleasant thought. ahh well, we;ll see how it goes :wink:

Hello Phoenix,

So after nearly 10 years did you follow the advice on this thread and get to fix your speedometer issue?

The thread ends with you setting your mind to do the job. There is no concluding comments about how the job turned out.

I would like to see the posting up of a happy ending for the story. An ending I might be able to copy off


Kind Regards
Lionel