Thread: Tie rod changeover

Should be no need to lift a wheel, I would take a measurement before you start, might be a good idea to remove the tie rod ends and apply some anti-sieze for future adjustment, I would use a tape measure and if those BGF MT are going on soon I would get the wheel alignment check than, your steering wheel should come back to centre if not adjust the front rod, sorry for one long sentence as I am online via a pda(blackberry), a new toy work has given for the short term

At the risk of repetition: thats the thing with weeds :roll: :wink:

An extract from the Disco manual:



The principles are the same as the Defender.

Alternatively:

Lift both wheels off the ground using a jack and axle stands. Mark a chalk line on each of the tyres at the front, measure the distance and then rotate the wheels 180 degrees (the chalk marks will now be at the rear)and measure the distance. If the wheels are aligned there will be no difference.

Vlad, if you want to align it yourself, it is very easy and very accurate with two parallel string lines down either side of the car.
Set the car up on a level surface. I go to the extent of shimming the floor with plywood. Make the stringlines at hub height (jack stands are great for this), make them longer than the car (so you can measure the distance between the lines front and rear) and use something like fishing line or a fine string (not too furry, better accuracy) and have the strings even width front and rear, and equal measurement side to side off the face of each hub. This ensures you have a parallelogram around the car.

Use a steel ruler (1mm increments, or smaller) and measure the front and back of the rim and the tyre sidewalls. Often you'll find the tyre is more consistent than the rim !!
The book calls for 0mm to 2mm toe out, which means that when measuring off your string line, the front and rear measurements should be the same, or the front should be 1mm less than the rear, for each side to give you 2mm toe out.

If you are pedantic with the setup, and repeat the measurements several times by rolling the car a little forward or back, this will be every bit, if not more accurate than any laser aligner.

Aligned many open wheel and sedan race cars this way a few years back.

ooppps, the pda really like posting that reply, might only use it for reading the posts and leave posting to the pc

sorry guys

easy way:

place drawing pin in each front tyre.

half way up front of tyre.

measure pin to pion.

move car backwards with out turning wheels.
measure pin to pin.

adjust untill have 1.5-2 mm tow out.
IE: front pins 1.5 to 2mm wider than rear.

Michael.

move car backwards w/out turning wheels :?:

Originally posted by VladTepes
move car backwards w/out turning wheels :?:

[img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Ok for people up north. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

do not turn wheels as in left or right.

just move car bacwards and forwards. [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img]

Originally posted by weeds
Should be no need to lift a wheel, I would take a measurement before you start, might be a good idea to remove the tie rod ends and apply some anti-sieze for future adjustment, I would use a tape measure and if those BGF MT are going on soon I would get the wheel alignment check than, your steering wheel should come back to centre if not adjust the front rod, sorry for one long sentence as I am online via a pda(blackberry), a new toy work has given for the short term

anti-sieze :?: :?