Thread: X-eng rear trailing arms

Wow, what sort of life are you seeing with the bushes Mark ?

Must have a fair bit of droop in that back end.

Hi Rick, first set of SuperPro bushes valiantly lasted almost 2 years which is a far cry from the OEM which were 2 days of off-roading. Just fitted fresh SuperPro just before Xmas for the Xmas trip but am concerned about the arm pushing through the mount walking the axle forward. When that happens it usually sticks like that until I brake heavily or the axle articulates against that force pulling it out and into form. If that happens regular the life of the bush will be shortened and it's not healthy for the UJ's and other bushes.

I wouldn't run any more travel than the likes of Goldcloverleaf, LowRanger, Brendanm, RVR110 and a list of others that run essentially the same set up. Not sure why I get special treatment. But compared to factory it's a significant amount of extra droop.

Thus the search to fix a problem I created by modifying. MLD

I will scrap the gigglepin arm product. The back outrigger on the 130 occupies the same space the new mount would fit to the chassis. Too much work to build an outrigger and trailing arm mount in one and get it passed engineering.

Another idea is to buy the johhny joint and insert from gigglepin and find a local machine shop/fabricator to weld the insert to a trailing arm. Adrenalin 4x4 (UK) make a johhny joint trailing arm but I don't like the aggressive crank in their arm. If you could buy their chassis end mount that would save fabricating that part.

Anyway enough ramblings, anyone with first hand experience with the X-eng trailing arm?

MLD

Superior Eng. Are now doing rear arms. I think around $400 a set.

Originally Posted by Vern

Superior Eng. Are now doing rear arms. I think around $400 a set.

https://www.superiorengineering.com....5499?filter=88

I'm assuing the mount on these bolts up where the bush usually goes?

I am a bit interested in this discussion as I've just put some 2" lifted springs in my RRC and while doing a few odd jobs underneath it on the weekend, I noticed the old rubber control arm bushes were quite knackered - and the arm on quite an angle putting them under a lot more stress. It's something I didn't think about at the back - I have castor correction bushes to go in the front arms.

These look like they would be quite good, but I'm by no means a suspension expert - far from it.

MLD,
I have been running a pair for a number of years (along with x-spring and long travel rear shocks)
At the time, they were really the only option after running bent arms, as no other product existed.
I have just replaced the initial bushings. The rear bush, with the cutout for the arm was worn, hence the replacement. As it got worn, the rear axle was able to float about, giving you 'that floating' feeling as you drove on irregular bitumen, issue not noticed on rough or dirt roads. I may have just needed to increase the packing inside the end cap as the play was within a couple of mm, but as I had a second set of bushes, just replaced them.

Originally Posted by bacicat

I'm assuing the mount on these bolts up where the bush usually goes?

I am a bit interested in this discussion as I've just put some 2" lifted springs in my RRC and while doing ......

I spoke with Superior Engineering today re these arms. I was told they are a direct replacement for the factory arms. While i didn't ask the mounting hole question i assume direct replacement equals same holes.

They are the same length as the factory arm with allowance that the pivot point for the factory arm will be located at the centre of the pin between the 2 bushes while this pivot is off-set by the mount. I asked and didn't get a satisfactory answer how these would go for a 3" lifted truck. Noting that with the lift the arm pulls the axle forward under the truck at resting height comparative to the factory height. They don't make adjustable versions (they do for the patrol so its possible). Old mate that i was talking to understood the dynamics of the lifted truck but wasn't able to say if the design negates, is neutral, or makes worse the walking forward.

I will do some measurements on the weekend with the cranked arms and the factory arms to see what is the relative measurements pin to pin between the 2 and then drink a beer while i ponder the superior engineering product. At $400 i don't want to experiment and find it was not a solution.

The bushes are factory issue Nissan patrol thus easily sourced.

I stumbled upon another product by Raptor 4x4 (UK) which is a johnny joint trailing arm. Bit pricey with conversion and freight. I like that the pivot point is forward of the chassis mount lengthening the arm but it could be susceptible to damage for an enthusiastic driver.

see product 01131B
RADIUS & TRAILING ARMS

MLD

Originally Posted by bacicat

https://www.superiorengineering.com....5499?filter=88

I'm assuing the mount on these bolts up where the bush usually goes?

I am a bit interested in this discussion as I've just put some 2" lifted springs in my RRC and while doing a few odd jobs underneath it on the weekend, I noticed the old rubber control arm bushes were quite knackered - and the arm on quite an angle putting them under a lot more stress. It's something I didn't think about at the back - I have castor correction bushes to go in the front arms.

These look like they would be quite good, but I'm by no means a suspension expert - far from it.

Gav, if you re running basically stock length dampers or up to at least 2" more droop, Super Pro bushes would be your best bet.
Mark is running a lot more travel than me, I think my rear shockies are 11" travel and I don't have an issue with the Super Pro bushes.