Another 300TDi Head gasket

**Tins** · 24th January 2016, 03:26 PM

I pulled the head off my 300TDi Disco. Nothing glaringly obvious wrong. The head is remarkably clean, with no obvious cracks. I don't have a reliable straightedge, but a steel ruler across it seems to say there is mo warp, but of course I'll take it to the man. Bent a 15mm spanner ( not cheap but not SnapOn or Stahlwille either) on one of the exhaust manifold nuts, otherwise no dramas. Injectors came out easily. I turned them a few times with another 15mm spanner, and gently levered them out.
At the risk of starting WWIII, I want to ask about the gasket to use. I've read a number of threads on this topic, but time and tech moves on. I agree with Frank that experience is better than theory, so what do those who have done their headgasket think; composite or laminated.?
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Not the best photos, not enough light. Anybody care to comment about the head? It has simply been wiped with a rag.

**Tins** · 24th January 2016, 03:28 PM

One day I'll work out how to post photos properly.

**loanrangie** · 24th January 2016, 03:39 PM

Since i am about to the do the exact same job, my preference is for composite on a used head.
For a new head i would use what ever the head suppler recommended (or insisted on) for warranty purposes but otherwise you cant go wrong with elring composite or MLS.

**Tank** · 24th January 2016, 03:46 PM

Originally Posted by johntins

One day I'll work out how to post photos properly.

John check with a steel ruler near the triangular hole between 2&3 also the left hand (as in pic) end, looks like some blow-by there. There also seems to be some blow-by from the combustion area to those oval shaped holes between the head bolt holes.
Are there any pieces of composite material missing/blown out?
If the head is reasonably flat clean the surfaces (spotless) fit a MLS pref. Victor Rienze head gasket with New bolts and see how you go, any chance of some pics of the block surface, if you haven't cleaned it yet, Regards Frank.

**Tins** · 24th January 2016, 04:16 PM

Originally Posted by Tank

John check with a steel ruler near the triangular hole between 2&3 also the left hand (as in pic) end, looks like some blow-by there. There also seems to be some blow-by from the combustion area to those oval shaped holes between the head bolt holes..

Yes, I was suspicious of the two spots you mention. The left hand bit is number 4. The possible blow-by there was more obvious before I lifted the gasket.

Originally Posted by Tank

Are there any pieces of composite material missing/blown out?

No. The only bits missing from the gasket were those that ahdered to the block

Originally Posted by Tank

If the head is reasonably flat clean the surfaces (spotless) fit a MLS pref. Victor Rienze head gasket with New bolts and see how you go, any chance of some pics of the block surface, if you haven't cleaned it yet, Regards Frank.

OK, I'll take a shot or two.

**rick130** · 24th January 2016, 04:58 PM

Frank has had good success with the MLS gasket, a couple of the pro Landy mechanics here prefer the Elring composite.

I used a genuine MLS gasket (new head, cleaned up but not decked block) and after two weeks it started to weep oil from near the oil gallery that supplies the rocker gear, but amazingly it has not seeped a drop in the last month, so go figure.

**Blknight.aus** · 24th January 2016, 05:22 PM

dont even bother with your measurements or inspections yet.

that heads not clean enough to assess accurately for serviceability.

before you go much further, clean the deck and the piston crowns and also do your overall protrusion and bore checks.

Theres nothing usually wrong with them but its worth doing just in case.

generally go the elring composite gasket on a used head

**Tins** · 24th January 2016, 05:49 PM

**Tins** · 24th January 2016, 06:04 PM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

dont even bother with your measurements or inspections yet.

that heads not clean enough to assess accurately for serviceability.

before you go much further, clean the deck and the piston crowns and also do your overall protrusion and bore checks.

Theres nothing usually wrong with them but its worth doing just in case.

generally go the elring composite gasket on a used head

I have no intention of actually assessing the head myself Dave. That's what the 'shop is for. So I won't be cleaning it.

When I'm back from Brisbane I'll do the other checks though.

Thanks for the advice on the gasket. Once again, opinion varies.

**Blknight.aus** · 24th January 2016, 07:44 PM

its worth making the effort to clean both the head and the block to the clean of all gunk stage and getting a good straight edge then doing the feeler guage check out of the head and deck, if you happen to have 2 spots that run wider apart in the same place on the head and the deck it'll fail early.

you're not after the surgery clean stage at this point, just chunk free.

also if you have any sign of weepage from the cam follower locating bolts nows the time to pull them and locktite them.

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