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Thread: 300 TDi crank pulley bolt....

  1. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    On the other hand, the thing probably would undo the nuts on the Scania...
    So, bought a Milwaulkee 18 volt 3/4 drive rattle gun. No contest. Undone in about one second. Wish I'd had it when I was undoing the head bolts... Gunna make changing wheels a snap.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  2. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    So, bought a Milwaulkee 18 volt 3/4 drive rattle gun. No contest. Undone in about one second. Wish I'd had it when I was undoing the head bolts... Gunna make changing wheels a snap.

    Wow, I can't believe that was so easy but so many other forceful methods failed. I was starting to think it was angle grinder time (possibly to the pulley as well!).

    Can I ask how much the rattle gun was?
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  3. #73
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    Congratulations!

    Sometimes the job is impossible without the right tool and dead easy with the right tool.

    Last year I spent a whole afternoon trying to remove the crank pulley bolt on a Camry to no avail.

    Next day I borrowed Tank's impact wrench and compressor. The exact time it took to remove the bolt was a bit difficult to measure accurately. However it would have been close to 1/4 second to start the bolt moving and about another 3/4 second to remove it completely.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  4. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post


    Can I ask how much the rattle gun was?
    Probably about this much.
    https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/mi...tusaAnIC8P8HAQ

    Maybe plus the cost of the battery and charger.

    1973 Series III LWB 1983 - 2006
    1998 300 Tdi Defender Trayback 2006 - often fitted with a Trayon slide-on camper.

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by vnx205 View Post
    Probably about this much.
    https://www.gettoolsdirect.com.au/mi...tusaAnIC8P8HAQ

    Maybe plus the cost of the battery and charger.

    Thanks for catering for my laziness.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

  6. #76
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    That ball joint on the drop arm from the steering box took me 12hrs to replace the first time without the correct tools.
    '95 Defender 130 Single Cab
    HS2.8 TGV Powered
    ------------
    98% of all Land Rovers built are still on the road.
    The other 2% made it home.

    Cost difference between Britpart and Genuine seals: £2.04. Knowing that your brakes won't fail at any moment: Priceless.

  7. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Judo View Post



    Wow, I can't believe that was so easy but so many other forceful methods failed. I was starting to think it was angle grinder time (possibly to the pulley as well!).

    Can I ask how much the rattle gun was?
    $699, with a charger and two batteries, from that tool mob with the red shops. I think it will be a good investment in the long run.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  8. #78
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    There is evidence of a considerable amount of some thread locking substance. Nice to know it works...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  9. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by johntins View Post
    $699, with a charger and two batteries, from that tool mob with the red shops. I think it will be a good investment in the long run.
    Dave (Blknight) and Tank both brought up good points re compressors and air lines. My 3/4 drive air rattler had no effect on this bolt, and I was at it for some time. My compressor was no good, so I borrowed a good one, which cost a lot of money when purchased, but still no good.
    I've been wanting a decent compressor for a while, but not any more. The ones I have will easily blow up a tyre, or run the brad gun when I need it, or the air ratchet, but I'm not chasing good performance out of air tools any longer. I have always liked cordless stuff, but all the stuff I have is NiCad. I simply was not prepared for the power that the Lithium stuff has. And now I have the core of a system that has many tools and doesn't need cords or hoses, and, if the rattle gun is any guide, is absolutely brilliant.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #80
    Judo's Avatar
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    Interesting to hear your thoughts on the new cordless gear. Everyone certainly raves about it being amazing. I've been very reluctant and haven't purchased any due to price. I'm sure one day I'll impulse purchase one, or need to undo a crank nut I suppose! hehe

    Glad you got it sorted. As I always think when I buy a new tool - have you spent much more than it would have cost to have a workshop do the work? A timing belt change could be $1000. That's how I justify all my new tools anyway.
    - Justin

    '95 Disco 300TDI - sold
    '86 County 110 Isuzu
    2006 Range Rover Vogue td6

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